Hard not to get affected!

February 14, 2011

A new practice was introduced a few years ago where the Movie Theaters in India play the National Anthem before the start of every movie. A note requests the audience to stand-up for the National Anthem and then a video of the National Anthem is played on the screen. Different theaters have been displaying different videos with renditions from a variety of artistes and in a variety of styles – India being so diverse with so many different regional / local singers, different singing styles, etc. As like every country’s National Anthem, my country’s National Anthem evokes a strong sense of patriotism and feeling of being alive. Of course, what follows more often than not would be a mindless Hindi movie with the usual “review label” issued by your friends – “keep your brains aside and its a timepass masala movie”. (Before you go accusing me of encouraging such movies by granting them business, I have watched only a few choicest movies in the Theaters).

I thought I had seen all versions of my country’s National Anthem when unexpectedly, I came across this “silent” version of the Indian National Anthem. It is very hard not to get affected! I was just not in control of myself and tears and emotions were playing a havoc. The “real me”, that I keep trying to bury in this insensitive city, surfaced without a warning and it was difficult to compose myself for a while.

All the angst buried just under the surface erupted and I cursed my fellow Indians for what they had done to our city, our state and our country. Filthy, illiterates – educated and uneducated alike, living in “kalyug” – a very sinful age, have turned the country into one big dumpster with mindless corruption, mindless construction, garbage everywhere, potholes everywhere, no civic sense and above all “no sensitivity”. And they had the gall to make these mute, blind and deaf handicapped children sing this hopeful and patriotic national anthem of a country that just doesn’t care about them.

Cool down you handful of sensitive guys (who are at least doing something for these handicapped people) and let me finish what I have to say. And shut up you rest of the supposedly patriotic guys who silence anyone who speaks about the ills affecting our country. Patriotism doesn’t mean that you write patriotic comments praising your country to the sky while sitting at your computer. Whatever few schools we have for the handicapped Indians are not enough. Whatever is being done by the sensitive few is just not enough. My heart cries out aloud when I see the total lack of sensitivity on the streets of Mumbai. Not one footpath is wheelchair friendly. Not one road is without potholes. The crowds just don’t have time and keep pushing and running around with no time to wait whether someone lives or dies. Footpaths are either littered with human excreta or garbage or with hawkers or with illegal shop extensions. Drain holes are not covered, roads and foothpaths are broken. And there is so much dust, so much honking, so much jostling around. This city is not fit for the so called “regular” humans, forget the handicapped. We don’t follow rules, everyone for oneself, rushing around. And worst, we have now started justifying it. It doesn’t have to be this way. Gandhiji died trying to teach the masses cleanliness, to follow some basic civil rules, to be humans and not cattle! What have we turned this country into? Just big nullas and gutters running in the open everywhere!

Go to a hospital, go to a government office, go to a morgue. We are so bloody corrupt that we don’t leave anyone. Not even the dead! Where is that sensitivity? Where is that patriotism? Are we really human? In truth we are just a nation of “thieves”. And we don’t care for the so called “normal” people, who has time for the handicapped? We make the life so tough for them and behave as if they should just die! I have been heart broken at story after story that I have read of the suffering of the handicapped people. Even if you have money, it doesn’t count in a country like India. It’s the nature of the people and the total insensitivity to the handicapped that is sickening. Ask Malini Chib or any of the thousands of handicapped who have suffered and asked for understanding and sensitivity but can not live their life here. And we will keep chanting about “hamaara culture, hamaari parampara”. Bull shit!

I know its not all bad, but just rise a few thousands feet above the earth and look down. The more progress India makes, the more its population grows. We are truly like bacteria eating up this earth mindlessly. We don’t care if other inhabitants of our land die or displace. Animals, birds, insects, plants, nothing! We will keep expanding the concrete jungle with polluted air, crazy noise and chaos without pausing to think, to bring in order, to be humans who care for everyone.

Ya, ya… rest of you critics can rise up now and shut me up as a depressed person looking at only the negatives. That there are people like the makers of the “silent” national anthem too. Like the school for such handicapped people. Like the good people who are putting up a fight and doing something about this. But my point is that this is simply not enough. Why are a majority of us not like them? Why do we have to let things degenerate so badly first for a few decades before we wake up to make things better? Are you all really blind to what is happening around us? Am I the only one to see?

There’s so much to do. It seems daunting and impossible. But I guess India will continue down this current ruthless path of so called progress boisterously, without a care in the word, without any sensitivity. What is going to happen, will happen. Don’t stop, don’t think. Just keep expanding, just keep pushing. The meek will perish. The boisterous will survive. No accountability. No justice. We will find solutions from the point of recognizing the problem, will not go back to find the original culprits. And I have to survive this painful torture of seeing all this in slow motion. What have we turned this country into. I feel like letting out a primal animal cry and wring some necks and then claim back my country and try to get us all to progress in a more humanly fashion where all 0f us can live a bit orderly. Why this rant? Why this tirade? Because it feels so helpless and weak not to be able to change things! This is just a cry of anguish from a defeated and tired and cranky person. Finish me off just as all others who tried to speak out, speak against what we are turning this country into and end my misery.

See this video of “The Silent Indian National Anthem” and tell me if it doesn’t affect you!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yNidDP7JRHA

 

 

 

Comments about “The Poisonwood Bible” written by Barbara Kingsolver

June 18, 2010

*** Spoiler alert: If you have not read the book, the notes below may reveal some of the plot. ***

Barbara Kingsolver presents the perspectives of Congo, Africa, Forests, Earth, Nature and looks at us humans and our activities from a totally different perspective. Throughout the book I felt that she held the mirror to the human race and helped us to see ourselves from the point of view of other beings on this planet.

She occasionally comes across as critical of the male of the human species and has a few “barbs” (pun intended) embedded in her narratives mainly through female characters. For example, Orleanna Price comments in passing at the beginning of the book “… in the 1920s, when elsewhere in the world the menfolk took a break between wars to perfect the airplane and the automobile, a white man …”. As if to imply, that the wars are the predominant occupation for, as she calls them, the “menfolk” :-). One felt a persistent undercurrent of her resentment against men, or rather, resentment against the mindless violent streak in men.

I loved Kingsolver’s writing style, her language, her creativity, the different perspectives she presented and her genuine love and respect for nature. Her wit and sarcasm expressed through Adah were simply superb… she could brutally tear down anyone with her tongue and coldly and objectively project the brutal truth. Later in the book, Kingsolver’s compassion, understanding, respect for Africa, guilt of her own race and all things human that she expressed through Leah was wonderful as well. She used Rachel well to provide some comic relief and to highlight human shallowness (or that of her fellow American public). She highlighted what innocence can do through Ruth May and also presented how we humans corrupt a child’s innocence by teaching false propaganda. Finally, through Orleanna Price she captured the human feeling of helplessness and dependence in soured relations. It’s easy to say that Orleanna should have walked out, but Kingsolver captured the feelings and practices of that time, that era and made the readers empathize with Orleanna’s feelings of helplessness and weakness. Kingsolver’s sharp observations of human behavior and human thinking at different ages and in different contexts were amazing.

On the flip side, the character of Father Price was just mono-layered with literally no depth or other side to him. Kingsolver gave all the characters a voice, a chance to tell things from their individual perspective, except Father Price. She did soften that up a bit later by explaining about his torturous time from the War and the Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD). In short, he needed help and not a wife who complied with all his whims, not kids whom he could whack at will.

I did Google up Kingsolver (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barbara_Kingsolver and http://www.kingsolver.com/biography/) and found information that kind of confirmed where she gets that earthy sense. She has her degrees in biology, has traveled the world and is also into farming / gardening. All of those things give her an earthy and knowing-woman-of-the-world kind of a perspective that city folks like me are unlikely to have. I now recall that she was in the news a few years ago with a book she released “Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life” and that kind of explains her general message of living in peace with nature and to try and be a part of it rather than to be on top of it.

Listed below are a few “good ones” from the book that explain the different characters and their way of thinking at different stages of their lives. Kingsolver’s attention to detail, of the thought process of each of the characters is astounding and is appreciated even better on second or third reading.

Caveat: These extracts are clubbed by character and not in the sequence of the story and so while they may show a character in different lights through the book, they may be a bit distracting from the story’s point of view.

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Orleanna Price

“We aimed for no more than to have dominion over every creature that moved upon the earth.” … “But what else could we have thought? Only that it began and ended with us.”

“Once every few years, even now, I catch the scent of Africa. It makes me want to keen, sing, clap up thunder, lie down at the foot of a tree and let the worms take whatever of me they can still use. I find it impossible to bear.”

“Africa, where one of my children remains in the dark red earth. It’s the scent of accusation. It seems I only know myself, anymore, by your attendance in my soul.”

“The woman squatting beside the oranges leaped up hissing, slicing her hands like scissors blades at the two of us, scorching me with eyes so hot the angry chocolate irises seemed to be melting into white.”

“Until that moment I’d thought I could have it both ways: to be one of them, and also my husband’s wife. What conceit! I was his instrument, his animal. Nothing more. How we wives and mothers do perish at the hands of our own righteousness. I was just one more of those women who clamp their mouths shut and wave the flag as their nation rolls off to conquer another in war. Guilty or innocent, they have everything to lose. They are what there is to lose. A wife is the earth itself, changing hands, bearing scars.”

“Oh little beast, little favorite. Can’t you see I died as well?”

“I could never work out whether we were to view religion as a life-insurance policy or a life sentence.”

“I couldn’t step in front of my husband to shelter them (her kids) from his scorching light. They were expected to look straight at him and go blind.”

“Nathan,  as a boy played football on his high school team in Killdeer, Mississippi, with great success evidently, and expected his winning season to continue ever after. He could not abide losing or backing down.”

“I held him in my arms at night and saw parts of him turn to ash. Then I saw him reborn, with a stone in place of his heart. Nathan would accept no more compromises.”

“Listen, little beast. Judge me as you will, but first listen. I am your mother. What happened to us could have happened anywhere, to any mother. I am not the first woman on earth to have seen her daughters possessed. For time and eternity there have been fathers like Nathan who simply can see no way to have a daughter but to own her like a plot of land. To work her, plow her under, rain down a dreadful poison upon her. Miraculously, it causes these girls to grow. They elongate on the pale slender stalks of their longing, like sunflowers with heavy heads. You can shield them with your body and soul, trying to absorb that awful rain, but they’ll still move toward him. Without cease, they will bend to his light.”

“Oh, a wife may revile such a man with every silent curse she knows. But she can’t throw stones. A stone would fly straight through him and strike the child made in his image, clipping out an eye or a tongue or an outstretched hand. It’s no use. There are no weapons for this fight. There are countless laws of man and of nature, and none of these is on your side. Your arms go weak in their sockets, your heart comes up empty. You can understand that the thing you love more than this world grew from a devil’s seed. It was you who let him plant it.”

“He came home with a crescent-shaped scar on his temple, seriously weakened vision in his left eye, and a suspicion of his own cowardice from which he could never recover. His first words to me were to speak of how fiercely he felt the eye of God upon him.”

Book Four – Bel and the Serpent – first chapter by Orleanna Price is a very tragic description of what happened to Congo and Lumumba. Must read.

“On the wings of an owl the fallen Congo came to haunt even our little family, we messengers of goodwill adrift on a sea of mistaken intentions.”

“Strange to say, when it came I felt as if I’d been waiting for it my whole married life. Waiting for that ax to fall so I could walk away with no forgiveness in my heart.”

“You can curse the dead or pray for them, but don’t expect them to do a thing for you. They’re far too interested in watching us, to see what in heaven’s name we will do next.” ß you can almost hear the gnawing of a mother’s guilt over her lost daughter.

“As long as I kept moving, my grief streamed out behind me like a swimmer’s long hair in water.”

“For women like me, it seems, it’s not ours to take charge of beginnings and endings. Not the marriage proposal, the summit conquered, the first shot fired, nor the last one either – the treaty at Appomattox, the knife in the heart. Let men write those stories. I can’t. I only know the middle ground where we live our lives.”

“But look at old women and bear in mind we are another country. We married with simple hopes: enough to eat and children who might outlive us. My life was a business of growing where planted and making good on the debts life gathered onto me.”

“But his kind will always lose in the end. I know this, and now I know why. Whether it’s wife or nation they occupy, their mistake is the same: they stand still, and their stake moves underneath them.”

“A territory is only possessed for a moment in time.”

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Leah Price

“In a burst of light Methuselah opened his wings and fluttered like freedom itself, lifting himself to the top of our Kentucky Wonder vines and the highest boughs of the jungle that will surely take back everything once we are gone.”

“That’s one more thing to remember when I am grown, to tell about the Congo: how the mango fruits hung way down on long, long stems like extension cords. I believe God felt sorry for the Africans after putting the coconut so far out of reach, and aimed to make the mango easier to get a hand on.”

“There is something else I must confess about Tata Boanda: he’s a sinner. Right in the plain sight of God he has two wives, a young and an old one. Why, they all come to church! Father says we’re to pray for all three of them, but when you get down to the particulars it’s hard to know exactly what outcome to pray for.” ß LOL J

“My view of the home is: it is always better to be outside.”

“Most of the girls my age, or even younger, have babies. They appear way too young to be married, till you look in their eyes. Then you’ll see it. Their eyes look happy and sad at the same time, but unexcited by anything, shifting easily off to the side as if they’ve already seen most what there is. Married eyes.”

“He sings softly to the bees as he walks through the village, and the children run after him, mesmerized by the prospect of honey, their eagerness for a sweet causing them to vibrate and hum like the bees.”

“This came as a strange letdown, to see how the game always went to those who knew the rules without understanding the lesson.”

“They used to feed Christians to the lions, and now Adah uses that phrase ironically, referring to how I supposedly left her to be eaten up on the path.”

“I could only stare at Ruth May’s bare left shoulder, where two red puncture wounds stood out like red beads on her flesh. Two dots an inch apart, as small and tidy as punctuation marks at the end of a sentence none of us could read. The sentence would have started somewhere just above her heart.”

“She looked more like a billowy cloud that could rise right up through the trees, whenever mother finally let go.”

“We were all cut down together by the knife of our own hope, for if there is any single thing that everyone hopes for most dearly, it must this: that the youngest outlive the oldest.”

“I suppose they were as astonished as we were that a member of our family was capable of death.”

“Democracy and Dictatorships are political systems; they have to do with who participates in the leadership. Socialism and Capitalism are economic systems. It has to do with who owns the wealth of your nation, and who gets to eat. Can you grasp that?”

————————————————————————

Adah Price

“I am the one who does not speak. Our Father speaks for all of us, as far as I can see.”

“Oh, I can easily imagine the fetal mishap: we were inside the womb together dum-de-dum when Leah suddenly turned and declared, Adah you are just too slow. I am taking all nourishment here and going on ahead. She grew strong as I grew weak. (Yes! Jesus loves me!). And so it came to pass, in the Eden of our mother’s womb, I was cannibalized by my sister”.

“Silence has many advantages. When you do not speak, other presume you to be deaf or feeble-minded and promptly make a show of their own limitations.”

“It is true that I do not speak as well as I think. But that is true of most people, as nearly as I can tell.”

“Thousands more fish jerked in the sun and went bad by the riverbanks. Our village was blessed for weeks with the smell of putrefaction. Instead of abundance it was a holiday of waste. No ice.”

“How stupid, that they had not even conspired to get their story straight. All the evildoers in the Bible were spectacularly dumb.”

“I yawned, uninspired yet again by the pious and beautiful Susanna.  I was unlikely to ever have her problems.”

“For some, I am told, this weighted-down helplessness comes in dreams. For me it is my life.”

“I never imagined myself as a woman grown, anyway, and nowadays especially it seems a waste of imagination.”

“Now the thunderstorms. The funerals are drying up slowly as the puddles.”

“Bongo Bango Bingo. That is the story of Congo they are telling now in America: a tale of cannibals. I know about this kind of story – the lonely look down upon the hungry; the hungry look down upon the starving. The guilty blame the damaged. Those of doubtful righteousness speak of cannibals, the unquestionably vile, the sinners and the damned. It makes everyone feel much better. So, Krushchev is said to be here dancing with the man-eating natives, teaching them to hate the Americans and the Belgians? After all, we have such white skin. We eat their food inside our large house, and throw out the bones. Bones that lie helter-skelter on the grass, from which to tell our fortunes. Why ever should the Congolese read our doom? After all, we have offered to feed their children to the crocodiles in order for them to know the Kingdom and the Power and the Glory.”

“When Miss Dickinson says, ‘Hope is the thing with feathers,’ I always think of something round – a ball from one of the games I will never play – stuck all around like a clove-orange sachet with red feathers. I have pictured it many times – Hope! – wondering how I would catch such a thing one-handed, if it did come floating down to me from the sky.”

“The things we do not know, independently and in unison as a family, would fill two separate baskets, each with a large hole in the bottom.”

“But Nelson as a pupil is apt to turn teacher himself at the least provocation. And he seems to think his chatter improves our conversation, since I only write things on paper.”

“By pure mistake, his implementations is sometimes more pure than his intentions. But mostly it is the other way around. Mostly he shouts, ‘Praise be!’ while the back of his hand knocks you flat.”

“Our Father has a bone to pick with this world, and oh, he picks it like a sore. Picks it with the Word. His punishment is the Word, and his deficiencies are failures of words.”

“Then there is batiza, Our Father’s fixed passion. Batiza pronounced with the tongue curled just so means ‘baptism’. Otherwise, it means ‘to terrify’. Nelson spent part of an afternoon demonstrating to me that fine linguistic difference while we scraped chicken manure from the nest boxes. No one has yet explained it to the Reverend. He is not of a mind to receive certain news. Perhaps he should clean more chicken houses.”

“Our childhood had passed over into history overnight. The transition was unnoticed by anyone but ourselves.”

“Had I felt like entering the discussion, I would have pointed out that to Mama Mwanza his profession probably resembles the game of ‘Mother May I?,’ consisting of very long strings onf nonsense words in a row.”

“Wrote it, for the benefits of my sisters, left to right.”

“The point of the exercise was to convince ourselves that the wolf was not actually at the back door but perhaps merely salivating at the edge of our yard.”

“Poor tyrannical Rachel keeps trying to build a big-sister career upon a slim sixteen-month seniority, insisting that we respect her as our elder. But Leah and I have not thought of her in that way since the second grade, when we passed her up in the school spelling bee. Her downfall was the ridiculously easy word scheme.”

“That night marks my life’s dark center, the moment when growing up ended and the long downward slope toward death began.”

“Hunger of the body is altogether different from the shallow, daily hunger of the belly. Those who have known this kind of hunger cannot entirely love, ever again, those who have not.”

“Since the terrible night of the ants, Mother had been creeping her remorse in flat-footed circles around me without ever speaking of it, wearing her guilt like the swollen breasts of a nursing mother. So far I refused to suckle and give her relief, but I kept close by.”

“On the day of the hunt I came to know in the slick center of my bones this one thing: all animals kill to survive, and we are animals.”

“The death of something living is the price of our own survival, and we pay it again and again. We have no choice. It is the one solemn promise every life on earth is born and bound to keep.”

“I have always been the one who sacrificed life and limb and half a brain to save the other half. My habit is to drag myself imperiously through a world that owes me unpayable debts. I have long relied on the comforts of martyrdom.”

“There was a room in Adah for nought but pure love and pure hate. Such a life is satisfying and deeply uncomplicated.”

“No wonder Father could not flee the same jungle twice.”

“Anatole and I inhabit the same atmosphere of solitude. The difference between us is he would give up his right arm and leg for Leah, whereas I already did.”

“If you are whole, you will argue: Why wouldn’t they rejoice? Don’t the poor miserable buggers all want to be like me? Not necessarily, no. The arrogance of the able-bodied is staggering. Yes, maybe we’d like to be able to get places quickly, and carry things in both hands, but only because we have to keep up with the rest of you, or get The Verse. We would rather be just like us, and have that be all right. How can I explain that my two unmatched halves used to add up to more than one whole?”

“I imagined getting the kerosene and burning him up in his bed. I only didn’t because you were in it too.

Mother: Then why didn’t you? Both of us together. You might as well have.

Adah: Because then you would be free too. And I didn’t want that. I wanted you to remember what he did to us.

Tall and straight I may appear, but I will always be Ada (without ‘h’) inside. A crooked little person trying to tell the truth. The power is in the balance: we are our injuries, as much as we are our successes.”

“Lock (Rachel), stock and barrel (Leah). So I am the one who quietly take stock, I suppose. Believing in all things equally. Believing fundamentally in the right of a plant or a virus to rule the earth. Mother says I have no heart for my own kind. She doesn’t know. I have too much. I know what we have done, and what we deserve.”

————————————————————————

Rachel Price

“Ruth May fixing to executrate …”  LOL.

“I knew right then I was in the sloop of despond”.

Remembered the missionary times? This was a nerve shock even to me, to hear that the villagers thought Christianity was like some old picture show that was way out of date. What did that make Father then, Charlie Chaplin, waddling around duck-footed, waving his cane and talking without any sounds coming out?”

“Every grown up in the room, including my mother, the Cussing Lady, and Mrs. Underdown, who kept rubbing her neck and craning her chin to the side, you could have mistaken for a mental psychiatry patient right then. Except for Father, and of course he is the one who is really mental.”

“If we don’t boil our water for thirty full minutes we’ll get plebiscites and what not.”

“I thought I had died and gone to hell. But it’s worse than that – I am alive in hell.”

“‘You two can just go ahead and laugh,’ I said. ‘But I read the papers. Ronald Reagan is keeping us safe from the socialistic dictators, and you should be grateful for it.’

‘Socialistic dictators such as?’

‘I don’t know. Karl Marx! Isn’t he still in charge of Russia?

Adah was laughing so hard in the backseat I thought she was going to pee on herself.’”

“Those two were always connected in their won weird, special way. Even when they can’t stand each other, they still always know what the other’s talking about when nobody else does. But I didn’t let it bother me. I am certainly old enough to hold up my head and have my own personal adventures in life. I dreamed I toured the Ancient Palace of Abomey in my Maidenform Bra!”

“‘Thou shalt not kill,’ I replied. ‘That’s not just our way of thinking. It happens to be in the Bible.’

Leah and Adah smiled at each other.

‘Right. Herer’s to Bible, ’ Leah said, clinking her bottle against mine.

‘Tata Jesus is bangala!’ Adah said, raising her bottle too.

She and Leah looked at each other for a second, then both started laughing like hyenas.

‘Jesus is poisonwood!’ Leah said. ‘Here’s to the Minister of Poisonwood. And here’s to his five wives!’

Adah stopped laughing. ‘That was us.’

‘Who?’ I said. ‘What?’

‘Nathan’s five legendary wives. They must have meant us.’

Leah stared at her. ‘You’re right’”

————————————————————————

Ruth May

“God says the Africans are the Tribes of Ham. Ham was the worst of Noah’s three boys”… “So Noah cursed all Ham’s children to be slaves for ever and ever. That’s how come them to turn out dark.” <– Just reflects on how we humans are and how we pollute a child’s innocence in the God’s name to justify our evil deeds. They say, winners write history and they do it in the God’s name.

“For the longest time, I used think that my name is Sugar. Mama always says that. Sugar, come here a minute. Sugar, now don’t do that.”

“Mayonnaise,” I asked Mama. “What color was the jar?” But she didn’t cry. Sometimes when I can’t remember things from Georgia, she will cry.

————————————————————————

Anatole

“Don’t try to make life a mathematics problem with yourself in the center and everything coming out equal. When you are good, bad things can still happen. And if you are bad, you can still be lucky.”

“There are more words in the world than no and yes.”

————————————————————————

Eyes in the trees / Green Mamba Snake (Nature / Forest / Time)

“Every life is different because you passed this way and touched history. Everyone is complicity. The okapi complied by living, and the spider by dying. It would have lived it could.”

“The mother and daughters move like oil through the clear dark fluid of this crowd, mingling and then coming back to itself.”

“The teeth at your bones are your own, the hunger is yours, forgiveness is yours.”

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An Unforgettable Evening – Part 6

September 14, 2009

After the event:

Later, after the event, I read a newspaper article about Pandit Chaurasia and Gwyneth and was surprised to see it mention about Panditji’s school in Juhu. Now I live in the Juhu area and so I immediately Googled for Pandit Chaurasia’s school. I was surprised to learn from his website that his school Vrindaban Gurukul was actually within walking distance of my place (http://www.hariprasadchaurasia.com/vrindaban.htm). In fact, I had walked past it and even remember that building. You never know, one of these days I may just drop in there to go and listen to Panditji and get lost in his music again.

Here’s that article from Mumbai Times section of The Times of India newspaper –

Harping around!

REAGAN GAVIN RASQUINHA (reagan.gavin@timesgroup.com), TNN 27 August 2009, 12:00am IST

Okay, so she’s got no King David to serenade, but the elfin-like Dutch harp player Gwyneth Wentink has rolled with her share of royalty. At an age when most kids are still struggling with spellings, she played a show for Queen Beatrix of Netherlands at ten!

Picture: Gwyneth Wentink and Pt Hariprasad Chaurasia

Gwyneth Wentink and Pt Hariprasad Chaurasia

Apart from that, she can command the attention of a royally large audience if she so wants to. And she has. At Carnegie Hall, the Royal Albert Hall, the Royal Academy of Music… and just a few days ago, at the NCPA as part of the Kala Viraasat (“Vihh-ur-ahsut,” as she struggles to pronounce it), with our very own flautist, Pt Hariprasad Chaurasia. But this is not a first-time collaboration.

“I’ve been playing off and on with Pt Hariprasad since 2005. In May of 2005, we performed in New York for a concert I remember as being quite special,” she reminisces.

No Bollywood confections for this chick. She loves rock ’n roll that tilts towards “Led Zeppelin, Guns ‘n Roses and classic rock…” Food is another thing she’s passionate about, and Indian food is top on her list. Move over Chicken tikka masala, she prefers the real thing. “I have eaten some authentic Indian food and I love it,” she says.

For her, spice definitely is nice. At Chaurasia’s ashram in Juhu, the Panditji is winding up an afternoon lesson with a bunch of students.

The buzzing, droning sound of almost two dozen flutes struggling (some, a bit unsuccessfully) to emulate the one dominant flute adds to the heavy-lidded afternoon heat. Then, things are put away and he shuffles over to a large harp, one of the only two in India. “I believe this one’s been brought in from Delhi by road. I’ve always felt that the sound of a harp and flute go together really well,” he says.

On suggestion, they swap instruments and are motioned to ease up a bit closer. It’s one of those happy accidents. She picks up his flute with sinewy arms peaked with graceful fingers surprisingly uncalloused given the fact that she has been plucking copper-wound and gut strings since age five. “Everyone knows I play the flute, but now, I’m going to serenade her with the harp!” chuckles Pt Chaurasia.

Read Part 5 Read Part 1

An Unforgettable Evening – Part 5

September 14, 2009

And now, we come to the main attraction of the evening. Six musicians on stage led by Pandit Chaurasia on the flute, Gwyneth on the harp, Louis Banks on the synthesizer, Vijay Ghate on Tabla, Rakesh Chaurasia on flute and Gino Banks on the drums. A Google search tells me that Rakesh Chaurasia is Pandit Chaurasia’s nephew and disciple. It was around 9:45 pm by the time this act began and to be frank my stomach’s grumbling was at its peak. But one can’t walk away from a treat like this. Panditji joked that he didn’t even know what raag this piece was to be played in and the crowd laughed along. He then said that they were going to play this piece in raag Kedarva and someone sitting next to me said “wow”. I don’t know the different raagas but it was a very pleasant piece. Led by Panditji, all of the musicians got a chance to play lead pieces within this presentation with Panditji skillfully taking over and passing the baton to the next musician. When all the musicians had had their turn, Panditji led them towards the climax building the pace of the piece.

Now this is what everyone was here for. I don’t know what words to use, but it is almost as if there is a zone of excellence and ecstasy and Panditji has the key to that zone. If I were to describe it in terms of action, I can almost visualize Panditji leading the way to the top of a mountain, egging everyone to trust him and follow him. He not only led all the musicians but also the audience along. In that peak feverish climax he started jugalbandi / jamming with Vijay Ghate and Gino Banks. He would play a few notes and look to Vijay Ghate as cue, who would then try to play those same notes on Tabla. Then Panditji would play a few notes and look to Gino, who would play something on the drums. And as the tempo was rising, the entire auditorium was mesmerized. Now everyone knows that Tabla doesn’t have an octave like a flute or a piano. But as with the crescendo rising, Panditji played a few notes that one thought Tabla would not be able to match, but Vijay Ghate literally greased the Tabla to play those same notes. It was unbelievable and the whole audience applauded. Drums do have the limitation in this matter as compared to tabla, but Gino was trying to be as inventive as possible with enthusiastic encouragement from the audience. One could literally see it clearly how the master was leading Gino by hand and extending his music and talents beyond his limits. With the playful back-and-forth, Panditji played a low coarse water-gushing kind of a sound and looked at Vijay Ghate, who playfully threw up his hands to indicate that he had no answer on the tabla to this “googly” or “curve ball” from Panditji. And the whole auditorium laughed and applauded.

As the combined piece gathered the final momentum, Rakesh Chaurasia was signaling to the Sound Engineer to tweak up Panditji’s microphone setting up to enhance the sound and depth of it. Young Gwyneth was also in a trance enjoying the music and successfully played the Indian classical tones on her harp matching note for note in this raag. This is the part I felt it most strongly that the sound for the harp should have been turned up, as it was simply getting lost in the sounds of the drums and other instruments.

All of the musicians were now following Panditji together as he played the feverish climax, all of them lost in the music and without fail all of them collectively extending themselves way beyond what each of them was capable of playing individually. I told you about my relocation, cribbed about Mumbai, was apprehensive about my wife’s reaction and complained about the callous crowds, but this is the moment for which I had come to this event. Panditji leading everyone to that zone, where nothing else mattered. We were all beyond ourselves, not knowing where we were, not knowing what we were doing. My wife and I found ourselves on our feet clapping and cheering wildly and found many others around us doing the same. I can vouch that it wouldn’t matter which country or where on earth this music was played. Any country, any place, any crowd would have been on their feet. Oh my goodness! It was exhilarating and mind-blowing and totally a different experience. Nothing else mattered, than being there in that moment, completely surrendered to that surreal feeling.

It was truly an unforgettable evening!

Picture: Ticket for the event.

Picture: Ticket for the event.

p.s.: I have had these extremely bad experiences when I went to see movies in theaters here. College kids would come to these posh multiplexes and spoil the movies for everyone. They laughed when Aamir Khan and team were being killed in Rang De Basanti. They actually sang and made cat calls as Dumbledore was dying in Harry Potter and the half-blood prince. Nothing is sacred anymore to the Mumbai youth, I guess. They are born innocent but quickly grow a thick skin and a concrete heart in Mumbai. Life here does that to people. I had come to expect these spoilers in movies but was disappointed to see these spoilers even at a cultural event such as the above presentation. I report this with sadness but now I don’t think I can ever say this for Mumbai, that a presenter had everybody in complete control and performed with such command that not a single person dare move a muscle. Many people continued to leave even as the climax was playing out, phones still rang and I still feel sad that there is nothing in life that these people would respect. There is no such thing as pin-drop silence. Gone are those days. Over the years, Mumbai has changed, it’s people have changed, unknown to themselves, for worse.

Acknowledgment: To all those who previewed this piece and wish to remain unnamed. Thanks for your inputs and suggestions.

Read Part 4 Read Part 6

 

 

An Unforgettable Evening – Part 4

September 14, 2009

And then came the maestro, Pandit Hariprasad Chaurasia. Everyone was on their feet. I had read that very strong lungs and chest are needed to be able to play flute for a prolonged performance. Pandit Chaurasia looked older than the photo and I later learned that he had turned seventy years in 2008. This performance had Gwyneth on the Harp, Vijay Ghate on tabla and Pandit Chaurasia on the flute. I had imagined that the flute would start churning out the sweetest sounds when such an experienced flautist started playing. It almost appeared that the first couple of notes were not to Panditji’s liking and is the flute had a life of it’s own and took a couple of minutes to warm up. I also learnt that Panditji had a very distinct style of playing rather than the smooth sound. I figured that it would take years of practice and experience to be able to play this type of music with so much emotion in it. For want of a better word, Pandit Chaurasia’s flute music had a bit or coarseness to it. I guess he was able to add texture to the music with this style and it was a very fine line to tread. It appeared that if a younger flautist was to try the same, he may border on sounding “besura” or off-key. The sound of harp went very well with the flute. I guess the santoor-flute jugalbandi by Shiv-Hari from earlier years may have prepared me for a similar sound.

I must talk about Vijay Ghate here. Just like Pandit Chaurasia’s name is synonymous with flute, Ustaad Zakir Hussain with his big curly locks is famous and synonymous with tabla. I was seeing Vijay Ghate for the first time and he too had modeled his hair similar to Ustaad Zakir Hussain’s locks. Vijay seemed to be a great entertainer and while waiting for his queue to start playing, he kept the audience involved and focused on Pandit Chaurasia’s flute. He would raise his hand in “wah” at specific notes while Pandit Chaurasia was playing to emphasize what notes the audience should focus on. He was enjoying Pandit Chaurasia’s performance with full enthusiasm and that kind of also sets the tone for the audience too. Having seen him enjoy, I concluded that every performance should also have similar enhancers. Not artificial prompters but mood setters, who could engage audience participation.

Pandit Chaurasia was at the center leading that performance and Gwyneth was ably matching the flute with the Indian sounds on the harp. The audience was impressed. One could also see the chemistry of a Guru (teacher) and a Shishya (student) going on as Pandit Chaurasia led the way and Gwyneth followed ably, albeit, maintaining a respectable distance as she followed her Guru. I had seen some other concerts where Ustaad Zakir Hussain was on the tabla ably maintaining the beat while playing to Pandit Chaurasia’s flute. In comparison, I felt that Vijay Ghate didn’t get the beat or rhythm for this piece. Either that or I didn’t have enough knowledge to be able to understand his style for this piece. But overall, it was nice presentation and the crowd gave them a warm applause.

After this, Louis Banks, the famous Jazz musician came on stage for his performance on the piano and synthesizer keyboard as well. He introduced his son Gino Banks who played the drums. I tried my best to receive their performance with an open mind and liked the melodious bits of it. I even appreciated wherever they played Jazz like free-form pieces. But overall, I still don’t like Jazz much. The best I can rationalize is that I like my music better if there is a melody to it and if there is a tune to it that I can remember and hum it later. Jazz allows the musicians to explore and express free form and that surely must be liberating, but not for me. The father son-duo played well and the audience gave them a warm applause.

Read Part 3 Read Part 5

An Unforgettable Evening – Part 3

September 14, 2009

Picture 1: Brochure for the Kala Viraasat event

Picture 1: Brochure for the Kala Viraasat event.

 

Picture 2: Brochure for the Kala Viraasat event with a picture of Pandit Hariprasad Chaurasia, Gwyneth Wentink and Louiz Banks.

Picture 2: Brochure for the Kala Viraasat event with a picture of Pandit Hariprasad Chaurasia, Gwyneth Wentink and Louiz Banks.

To those who don’t know, “Pandit” is a title for a priest at a temple. But it is also used for the classical music maestros in India. The word “Pandit” is also the same as “Pundit” and another meaning for the word is “Teacher”. I may be wrong, but I think it is mostly Hindu musicians who call themselves “Pandit” and the Muslim musicians call themselves “Ustaad” (pronounced as “oo staad” not “uh” as in umbrella). I don’t know much of his history (though I may have read it at some point and forgotten) but Pandit Chaurasia is the face of flute music in India. Newspapers, TV, etc. wherever people talk of Indian classical music, his name reigns supreme as a flautist. He has also teamed up with the famous Santoor player Pandit Shiv Kumar Sharma in the past and given music to a couple of Hindi Bollywood movies (Chandani and Lamhe). I should also mention here about raagas. I am not very informed about the classical music but from what I understand, the word “raag” means a range of specific notes. There are different kinds of raagas to symbolize different times of the day, different moods of a person, etc. So, while a raag may not necessarily mean a tune, it means a musician can play any number of keys in different patterns as long as the keys are within that raag’s range.

Eventually the host for the evening took the microphone at around 7:20pm and started with some announcements. The show started with the young Harp player from Netherlands Ms. Gwyneth Wentink. Very tall and lanky, Gwyneth was treated to an encouraging welcome by the Indian audience, especially since she endeared them by wearing an Indian dress – salwaar kameez. Also, the host had mentioned that she was just 26-27 years old and that’s quite an achievement to have already played at all the major venues of the world at that young an age. She explained that she had played with Pandit Chaurasia first in Philadelphia, USA a few years ago and she had turned into a disciple, visiting India and learning under Panditji. She gave a bit of a history of the harp and the huge and well-polished shiny harp on the stage was lent by the Austrian Cultural Forum, New Delhi. It was one of only two such professional harps in India. We had seen a harp only once before, a few months ago at Sacre Coeur in Paris. A musician was playing beautiful and soothing rhythms on his harp on the steps outside the church. We still remember the stirring and echoing sounds and I thought that this presentation would be even better.

Gwyneth played a few of the European compositions ranging from the old, that were a couple of hundred years old, and some relatively new ones from the 20th century. The harp is similar to the Indian musical instrument Santoor as both of them have so many strings. Santoor has a box-like casing under the strings there-by leading to a more sustained and deeper sound. The Harp sounded even more complicated not just due to the sheer size but also because the strings had to be plucked by the finger tips. Gwyneth had also explained that a harp has 6 pedals as well to shift base for the notes. So both the hands and legs are busy while tilting the huge frame of the harp towards the musician’s shoulders as the musician sat on the chair plucking on the strings. It was mesmerizing to see her fluently play various patterns. I don’t know the original music sheet for those compositions but it did appear that in some passages in between, the composer may have allowed enough flexibility for the musician to deviate and explore, unless of course it was Gwyneth who had taken the liberty. But either way, it enhanced the performance and one could see the amount of practice that must have gone on achieve this kind of fluency. She skillfully moved from complex notes to periods of melancholy brooding plucking the notes so softly that one could barely hear and yet could completely identify with the tenderness of that moment. I was thinking her finger tips may be rather worn out after years of toiling at the harp, but later I read in a newspaper article that her finger tips are surprisingly intact.

I must mention that Gwyneth was very proficient but I felt that the sound system did not do enough justice to the harp. I would have imagined the sound system to be set to a louder and a sustain / echoing mode. I had seen experienced musicians step down into the auditorium before the show, take a seat in different parts of the auditorium to hear the sound arrangements and ask the sound engineer to tweak the same. I don’t know if Gwyneth may have hesitated to demand any changes, but I think the harp definitely would have sounded better with a more pronounced sound setting. There were fixed microphones for other places on the stage where other musicians would take seat. This thought was later reinforced when I heard the sound of flute, loud and clear with a sustain mode. I have a feeling that the different microphones were set to different levels ahead of the eventual “jugalbandi” / jamming session with flute being the leader and the harp being the accompanier and that those settings were left at that right from the beginning. But at the start where Harp was the solo, those settings should have been enhanced.

Other than the above, the harp solo performance was very nice. I guess part of what got to me was also the constant flow of late-comers who continued to pour into the auditorium hall well after Gwyneth’s performance had commenced. I kept telling myself to focus on the goodness in life and to pay attention to the harp on the stage. But merry old uncles-and-aunties kept pouring in and they walked right in front past my view on their way towards their seats. There was no way I could avoid seeing the harp without seeing them block the view for considerable seconds. One after the other. I couldn’t help but remember that there was a time when one could say that a maestro’s performance was so great that there would be pin-drop silence, nobody would move. I think those days are long gone by. I don’t know whether its my prejudice or if its the truth that only an objective eye who can see the Mumbai world from outside, but I strongly felt at that moment that the Mumbai public had grown even more obnoxious with the more money that has flowed in. They just didn’t care that they were late or were obstructing others’ view. They took their time and their body language indicated an air of I-don’t-give-a-damn attitude. There were the usual cell phones ringing loudly and that too for four-or-five rings before they would be answered. Yes, phones, plural, at least 4-to-5 times. But the crowd eventually settled down and the lights were dimmed out completely.

Read Part 2 Read Part 4

 

 

 

An Unforgettable Evening – Part 2

September 14, 2009

On that Friday, we planned to leave at 5:00 pm, a couple of hours before the event time, to leave a buffer of at least 15-to-30 minutes over and above the drive through the traffic. On Sunday, when the roads have manageable moving traffic, we would reach from my residence in Juhu to Worli in about 30-to-35 minutes, but weekdays are just simply crazy. We reached the lawns of the Nehru Center about 20 minutes before the event-time and enjoyed a short walk in the peaceful landscaped garden leaving behind the maddening traffic chaos on the roads outside. This was my first visit to the Nehru Center campus since my school days, when I had visited the Nehru Planetarium almost 22-to-25 years ago in the nineteen eighties. I asked the uniformed garden caretaker where the auditorium was within the Nehru Center campus. He pointed at a building and asked us to go straight past the garden gate towards that building. On reaching the building entrance that the garden caretaker had pointed out, we were told by the gatekeeper that we had to go another gate for the auditorium. I was left shaking my head at how somethings never changed here. We still talk in terms of thing-a-mummy and what-do-you-call-that and never in specifics.

We entered the building and found a pleasing atmosphere in the lobby of the auditorium and without doubt such a cultural event still attracted the literary elite and upper middle class crowd, with the common man not to be seen anywhere. We were happy to see a decent number from the younger generation as well. We moved from the lobby to the main hall and took our seats once the auditorium bell rang to indicate that seating had begun. We were surprised to learn that the bell rang every minutes from there on until 7:15pm to remind people not to stand in the lobby and gossip but rather to enter the hall and take their seats. That did give me some time to prepare my wife for the show as well. Not that I was a regular visitor to such music presentations. I had been to such an event only 4-or-5 times before, I had bought a few classical instrumental music CDs and seen a few programs on television. I told her that if the music to be played today is melody-based then it will be enjoyable but if it is more technical or if they play a sad “raag“ (pronounced as raa gah with “g” as in girl) then it may get a bit difficult for us to follow and enjoy (“Raag” or “Raga” for singular and “Raagas” for plural). My wife obviously didn’t take it too kindly on being mischievously reminded about the cotton ear-plugs that she carried. We waited patiently for the show to start. There was not the slightest urgency as my typical fellow Mumbaikars took their seats, talked on their cell phones and generally contributed to the high decibel levels in the auditorium. We reviewed the tastefully prepared brochure and waited for the show to begin.

Read Part 1 Read Part 3

 

 

An Unforgettable Evening – Part 1

September 14, 2009

Though change is inevitable, it is also not easy to digest. Especially, if it means relocating from one country to another. Although the relocation is a conscious decision, there is still an initial period of adjustment. I guess the inevitable passage of that initial time will eventually lead to acceptance. Knowing my constitution and traits, I had given myself at least a month or two for that initial period of adjustment. 

It was around mid-August, close to a month-and-a-half since I had relocated from USA to Mumbai, and the period of mourning, grief and resistance was almost coming to an end. No doubt things were not going to change overnight and Mumbai would still continue to be the same old smoke, noise and dirt filled pressure cooker of a city. But I guess I was almost ready to lose the critical eye. I said “almost” because the cynicism and the colorful words that magically appear when I describe the city of Mumbai do not go unnoticed by sharp-eyed readers like you :-). Ahem, let me stop cursing Mumbai and get back on track. It was around mid-August and an advertisement in Mumbai Times caught my attention. Not because of the bright colors or the expressive faces of the classical Indian dancers of this two-day event, but because of Pandit Hariprasad Chaurasia, the legendary flute player. Call it a sign, the advertisement had painted the date 20th August 2009 for the first event of classical dance presentation in red and the date 21st August, 2009 for the second event of musical presentation in green :-). The dance presentation by 8 leading classical dancers representing different styles sounded very promising but I have not (yet) developed a taste for the Indian classical dances. The fact wasn’t lost on me that 8 dancing styles on one stage, in one program also goes to show the breadth of Indian classical dancing. Indeed, I did pause for a moment to think about it and feel proud of the cultural diversity, wealth and breadth in India. There probably are a countless other dancing styles in India, apart from the 8 mentioned in the advertisement and all of them just as Indian and just as beautiful. But I was pleasantly tempted to attend the musical presentation of Pandit Chaurasia. 21st was a Friday and the scheduled time of 7:00 pm suited such an event, but the venue was the Nehru Center Auditorium at Worli. Now that is a fair distance and a lot of traveling time considering the Mumbai traffic. But another positive was that the tickets were available at a bookstore “Landmark” that was fairly close to where I live. I decided that I want to attend this event and it brought a smile to my face because I knew that the period of post-relocation adjustment was almost over.

Now this may sound cold, but I was mindful of how the best of plans get scuttled when a spouse shoots down a plan for an evening. This was not one of those joint activities that a couple had to do together. While my wife is not much into classical music and had never attended such an event, this was the first time, post relocation, that I felt like venturing out into the city. It was symbolic of my adjustment to living in Mumbai and I was keen to go to this event. It was a sweet-and-comical scene straight out of “Everybody Loves Raymond” or any of those funny Sitcoms, when I emphatically told my wife that I planned to attend this event while apprehensively asking her if I should buy tickets for her as well. I guess she was going through the same relocation pangs and probably was pleasantly surprised that I was willingly planning to step out into the city. She did ask me if I was sure about traveling all the way to Worli and I said yes. We went and got the tickets from the bookstore and were happy to see that they had a seating chart as well. A seating chart available in a partner bookstore! That’s definitely a positive change and we would not have seen this amount of sensitivity or care in the past even for such a cultural event :-).

Read Part 2

 

Forwarding Emails – Harming people unknowingly

August 12, 2009
I thought of sharing this post with other victims who may have been at the receiving end of the ‘forwarding email’ phenomenon. I hope it will be convenient for them to just copy this text below and pass this along to the ones who torment them unintentionally ;-).
*****************************************
Hello Friends,
Please read this email very carefully.
1) Did you know that you may be unknowingly harming the people you care for most?
2) Did you know that you are innocently helping hackers and spammers?
I want to be the first to forward a good email to everyone I know:
It is now a common practice to receive forwarded emails from family and friends sharing some nice stories or useful information. If you notice the email thread, it usually contains email addresses in the “To” portion of the email. This means without your consent, your email address has now been broadcasted to hundreds of people. You did not have a say in that!
Most of these emails say forward it to 10 other people or all the people you care for. And what do you do next? You liked the email content so much that you forward that email to hundreds of other people you care for with their email addresses in the “To” portion :-). And you just broke their heart and harmed them forever.
Have you wondered how you receive so much spam mails?
I am a software programmer and I know how several computer hackers misuse these email addresses to infect your computers or sell lists of email addresses for marketing companies to spam you. They have sniffer programs that lookout for their secret keyword within the text of the email. Once they spot their email text, they are able to glean out all the email addresses in a forwarding chain.
Don’t forward an email. Instead, just copy the message content:
If you like an email message that you want to share with others. Just copy that message and compose a new email. Do NOT forward that email otherwise all the information including the sender’s details will get forwarded all over the world. Agreed that composing a new email takes a second extra but I am sure that you can do it.
Have you heard of Bcc?
Both GMail and Yahoo! Mail do not show the “Bcc” textbox by default. You have to click on “Add Bcc” or “Show Bcc” links and then it displays the textbox. The next time you forward any good emails, just put your email address in the “To” box and everyone else’s email addresses in the “Bcc” box. As simple as that. You will no longer be broadcasting the email addresses of the people you care for, without their permission. You will also no longer be contributing to the hackers and spammers.
Correct, just follow the simple steps – 1, 2 and 3:
1) Copy the message you liked in an email you received from someone.
2) Compose a new email (do NOT forward that earlier email)
3) Put everybody’s email address in “Bcc” box.
As simple as that and you will no longer be harming the people you care for! Make a fresh start today.
Eureka!!!
I have tried explaining the above 1, 2, 3 steps to several of my relatives and friends. I have even blocked the usual culprits because they just didn’t get it (and in the process lost their friendship). At that point their friendship was causing me more harm then good. I was lamenting what to do next to solve this ever-increasing problem and how do I convey this message to all the innocent people world over? “Eureka!!!”, I got an idea. Why not write an email that can easily turn into a viral forwarding chain?
Pass this message to all the people you know or …
I trust you guys to do the right thing and spread this message. But if some of you are planning to chicken out, then here are the usual tools to keep this message chain going… make use of threats, superstition, emotional blackmail, etc.
– If you read this email then send it to 10 other people or it will bring you bad luck.
– Rather than forward those stupid jokes, forward this useful email if you care for humanity.
– If you are a nice person, then please forward this to all the people you know.
But remember…  do NOT forward this email, instead use steps 1, 2 and 3
I am sure most of you reasonable humans will understand my message above. But can I trust you not to broadcast my contact details all over the world? Sure. So, just follow the steps 1, 2, 3 and you will be a better person.
Again, here are the steps:
1) Copy the message between the two lines of **** (asterisks),
2) compose a new email and
3) put email addresses of all the people you know in Bcc.
Send away!
*****************************************

Shipping from USA to Mumbai (Part 12)

July 29, 2009

We got it all intact

We did the Customs Clearance on our own without any corruption – highly recommended reading of my wife and my very first experience after our relocation!And I think with patience, perseverance and planning (and of course by carrying food and water), we had that small first positive victory of the many battles ahead.

The boxes arrived safely (though sagging from the weight of other boxes that may have been stacked on top of them). I also noticed that the boxes were neatly strapped to a pallet. I don’t know if they came that way all the way from USA or were they separated out and palletized in Mumbai later. I spent another Rs.3,500 roughly for customs fees (all official without any corruption) and local transportation. So I spent a total of around Rs. 9,000 (Oceanair Rs. 5,500 + Rs. 3,500 for Customs & Local Transportation) in India as well over and above $865 that I paid in USA.

Overall it all worked out in the end but I would recommend going with Maha / Air 7 Seas because of their handling a higher volume of relocations to India. If you go with Nina / Unipack Global Relocation or ILS then be prepared for the extra charges from weighing manipulations and also for a weak link / weak setup in India.

We are glad to have received everything back in order and without any damage! Hope this experience helps the readers in finding a shipper, in packing appropriately and in understanding the process on reaching India.

Part 11 Part 1

 

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Phonics Tuition in Juhu

Art, Craft and Painting Classes in Juhu

Shipping from USA to Mumbai (Part 11)

July 29, 2009

Feedback Form of Unipack Global Relocation

I filled Unipack’s feedback sheet and returned it to Nina on her request with the following recommendations:

********************

Positives:
+ Angelina Abraham handled all communication in a very professional and timely manner.
+ Very friendly and helpful.
+ Prompt communication even after I reached India and even after I received the packages.

Scope for improvements:

Unfair weighing practices: The actual shipping company and your partner ILS initially quoted an outrageous figure for the baggage weight. Only after repeated attempts did your Company verify with them and got the weight reduced. The reason given was that the ILS warehouse guy must have weighed the pallet together with my 10 boxes.

 The final weight I was charged for was at least 15 kgs over what I had stated. I used the same weighing scale for my bags when I travel internationally every year. The airline industrial weighing machine matches with what I weighed within a 0.5 kg +- margin. I would have accepted a kilo or two extra even though I still insist that it must be less than the weight that I stated. But 15kgs extra and the unexpected charge with it was not acceptable.

 I was bound to you guys since you already had my boxes. The other shipping companies I had spoken to never had these kinds of reviews and with the increased cost, it would have been better for me to go with them. They ship directly and not through another shipping partner. No one likes to feel cheated and pay under duress.

Inept and costly Indian partner: Your Indian partner Oceanair Express were not very efficient or customer friendly. Their initial phone number given to me by your Company was incorrect. Numbers on their website were incorrect too. It took me 3 days of repeated follow-up to get a confirmation that they were handling this case (earlier they claimed not having received any documents from ILS). It took me further couple of days to get an answer about when I should go for receiving the Customs Clearance documents. When I finally went there on the appointed day, they made me sit there for 2 & ½ hours before finally giving me the Delivery Order.

They made me pay a total of Rs. 5,500 (approx. USD 110) for CAN charges & other fees. They claimed to pay 80% to the airlines but their actual invoice showed their service charges at Rs.2,750. That comes to almost 50% of the charges and considering that their service was very poor, I was not very happy.

Bottomline:

1. Kudos to Angelina.

2. Iron out a better, tighter and fairer deal with ILS for the sake of your customers.

3. Find a better partner and dump Oceanair Express.

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Part 10 Part 12

 

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Phonics Tuition in Juhu

Art, Craft and Painting Classes in Juhu

Shipping from USA to Mumbai (Part 10)

July 29, 2009

(Dis)service charges at Oceanair Express

I reached Oceanair’s with my wife on Monday morning at 10:15am and met Mr. Arun. He was polite but I observed he never smiled. Not at me, not at anybody. He told me I was an hour-and-a-half early. I told him that he had called me first thing in the morning and on remembering that he said “no problem, I will get you your documents as fast as possible”. The staff seemed overworked and were grumbling all the time. Arun left the office for some work and told me that the papers were almost ready at 11:15am. His co-workers slammed him for dumping work on them and leaving office. They gave me the papers after repeated reminders and follow-ups at 12:20pm. I was asked to pay the charges for CAN (Customs Arrival Notification) and for Oceanair’s service charges totaling to Rs.5,600. Now that’s a big figure considering that you were just notified that the goods arrived and that you were just given some documents like Delivery Order (D.O.) and House Airway Bill. I inspected their invoice to see Oceanair service charge at Rs.2,750. Upon inquiring why such a high charge, the next in line in Arun’s absence blatantly lied that almost 80% of that Rs.5,600 went to the Airline Companies despite the Invoice clearly stating that half the amount went to Oceanair.

I grudgingly paid them the service charges for their disservice. Took my papers, thanked God that I had to deal with this Company only once and left.

Part 9 Part 11

 

 

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Phonics Tuition in Vile Parle

Art, Craft and Painting Classes in Vile Parle

 

Shipping from USA to Mumbai (Part 9)

July 29, 2009

Indian Counterparts

Nina emailed me the airway bill when the boxes were dispatched from USA and asked me to contact Oceanair Express at a particular phone number and they will explain the process in India. She also told me that if I do wish to avoid self Customs Clearance then Oceanair will do the same for me and I should ask them for their fees. After reaching Mumbai, India from Europe, I phoned the number Nina had provided and it turned out to be an outdated number no longer in service. And so began the saga in India. I then searched on the Internet and found Oceanair’s website http://www.writercorporation.com/html/freight/words.asp?option=words. I called on the phone number from their website and it turned out to be outdated as well. I then searched on Google again and found that the initial local code had changed for that phone number and called on the latest number and was able to finally get through.

After being transferred mid-sentence a couple of times, I finally explained about my shipment to Ms. Sakshi Joshi. She gave me her email address and asked me to forward the Airway Bill that Nina had emailed to me. She of course clarified that she has never heard of ILS :-). I did forward her that email but Sakshi did not reply back that day and so I called again the next day wanting to know if she even received my email since there was no acknowledgment from her. She told me that they could not find any details about this shipment in their records and so I contacted Nina again with a CC to Kelly Sayles of ILS. They told me that I had the correct Oceanair and that they will figure it out with them.

I again called Oceanair on the third day when Sakshi said that Mr. Arun Pednekar handled the foreign import department and had found the papers and told her that he already spoke to me. I haughtily refuted that claim and told her that I was the one who was calling their office since last 3 days and had not received a single call or email from Oceanair. She apologized and told me that she will have Arun call the same day. Arun of course called the next day and said that he spoke to someone about my shipment and if it wasn’t me then he wondered who he may be :-). He informed me that my boxes will arrive on a Saturday due to a delay on ILS’ part in Europe (almost 4 days late). He also told me that Oceanair is just a forwarding agent and that they do not do Customs Clearance. He gave me a CHA’s number. He promised to tell me the process in a couple of days. I didn’t from hear in the next couple of days and nor did he replied to my emails, so I called him again on the day before goods were scheduled to arrive and asked him when I was supposed to clear the goods. He told me to come to his office first thing on Monday morning.

Part 8 Part 10

 

 

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Shipping from USA to Mumbai (Part 8)

July 29, 2009

Disappointment with the weighing scam

Anyways, I had to stop worrying about the boxes since they were out of my hands now. Nina emailed me 3-4 days later once the boxes were weighed at the ILS warehouse and told me that the weight was 230 kgs instead of 180 kgs and so I will be charged accordingly. I was in Europe and told her that I was now helpless since the boxes were with her and I had no choice but I strongly expressed my reservations about the way in which they must have weighed my boxes. I told her that I had used the same weighing scale and weighing technique to weigh my bags at home before taking a flight to Europe. When those bags were weighed on an Industrial Weighing Scale at the Newark Airport, the bags still weighed the same with a margin-of-error of half-a-kilo here or there. I told her that unless they weighed other boxes together with my boxes or added my boxes a couple of times extra or weighed the boxes with the pallet, it was difficult to explain how they weighed fifty kilos extra.

She checked with ILS and got back that the ILS Warehouse people had included the pallet by mistake and that actual weight was 195 kgs. I was still not satisfied with the extra 15 kgs and felt that this was ILS’ way of taking undue advantage from a customer. Although Nina put up a front of trying to help me and that ILS was separate and really the ones indulging in this cheap tactic, I still felt that I had put an order with her Company and she should have fought my case. I told her that I was not satisfied but I wasn’t going to fight from Europe with her. So they charged $65 extra and Nina finally charged $865 to my credit card ($750 for shipping + $50 for holding the boxes for two weeks + $65 for excess weight). I found the amount reasonable but was not happy with their underhanded tricks.

Part 7 Part 9

 

 

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Shipping from USA to Mumbai (Part 7)

July 29, 2009

Pick-up from Harrisburg

On grilling Nina on the phone she disclosed that their Company had tied with another company called ILS (International Logistics Services) and ILS will be physically moving the goods and not Nina’s Company Unipack. I didn’t mind but the more layers that get added, the more the complications. I had come across the ILS website http://www.ilogistics.com/ earlier and could have gone directly to them.

On the appointed day a local logistics company sent a truck to pick the boxes. As is the usual practice in USA for such things like Cable Connection / Repairs people, Nina gave me a time from 8am to 4pm and arrived only after 3 pm :-). The driver did not know anything about ILS or Unipack and was from a third Company. He was a old man and a friend of mine and I ended up loading all 10 boxes on the truck. The driver pushed those 10 boxes and arranged them in the truck. He told me that the boxes would go his Company’s warehouse in Harrisburg and from there to another warehouse in York before being moved to New York to ILS’s warehouse. They would then be moved a couple of weeks later from that ILS warehouse to JFK for sending it by air. I later learnt that the boxes were delayed in Europe and may have been in a warehouse there as well before finally being dispatched to Mumbai.

Part 6 Part 8

 

 

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Shipping from USA to Mumbai (Part 6)

July 29, 2009

Finalize the Shipper

I then contacted Maha and Nina again with the exact number of boxes, weight and dimensions. Maha provided a quote of Door-to-Door (Harrisburg to Mumbai) by sea for $950 and Door-to-Port by sea for $650. She provided a quote of Door-to-Port by air for $960 (an Excel file with calculations to figure out the total with some charge for the pick-up, some for the actual weight, some fuel surcharge, etc.). Nina gave me a flat rate of $750 Door-to-Port by air (no calculations to figure out the total).

I decided to send the items by Air and go with Nina from Unipack Global Relocations. I had another unique requirement – the shipper should pick the boxes and then hold them for two weeks before shipping. This was because my wife and I wanted to stop over in Europe for just above two weeks (before we settled down in Mumbai). So the boxes should reach Mumbai just a couple of days after we reached Mumbai. This will allow us to be ready to receive the boxes the moment they arrived. Also, I have heard about the thefts / pilferage if the items stay for long at the Mumbai Air Customs warehouse. There is also a limit about when the package is supposed to arrive in order to claim the Transfer of Residence (I think for the Sea shipments the goods should not leave USA 60 days before your arrival in India and 30 days after arrival in India – not sure about the exact limits). Nina offered to hold the boxes at their warehouse for a flat fee of $50.

Curious case of insurance: I inquired about the insurance rate and she explained the charges but clarified that the insurance will be paid only if the entire shipment was lost or destroyed. I asked her what if one box or a few items within a box were damaged? She replied that if I had hired her Company to do the packing also then she could have done an inventory and the Insurance Company would have relied on an independent third-party (her Company) inventory verification and accordingly given that kind of insurance where damages to individual items or boxes could be claimed. But in my case, since I had packed the boxes myself, the Insurance company will not pay damages for individual items due to a lack of third-party inventory. I asked her why the Insurance Company would be willing to trust my inventory and pay me if the entire shipment is lost but not pay me if one box is lost. She didn’t know the answer but said that the Insurance company would pay at a fixed rate per kg for the entire shipment and not trust my inventory. She finally advised to not take any insurance as in her experience an entire shipment is rarely lost. I was too confused and at the edge by then with no time left due to wind-up activities on the other side and so I just went without insurance. I was of course very scared with that decision. Nina told me that any insurance offered to me by any shipper would be the same. But I didn’t have the time to verify that claim with other shippers.

Anyways, I prepared the summarized packing list for each box emailed that to Nina. I finally sealed all the boxes. I further printed sticker labels (available in Staples / Target) with the destination address and applied one each on all five surfaces. I also applied sticker labels stating box # x of y (e.g. box # 1 of 10) on all five surfaces. Using the computer to print these sticker labels and sticking them made the task simple.

Part 5 Part 7

 

 

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Shipping from USA to Mumbai (Part 5)

July 29, 2009

How to pack?

I told both Maha and Nina that I will let them know when our final packing was done in about 2-3 weeks and give them the exact final count of boxes with their dimensions and weight to get their final quote. Reading the helpful posts from different websites (mentioned above) and also based on a couple of documents from Maha and Nina, I decided to ensure that each box weigh not more than eighteen kilograms (18 kgs) or forty pounds (39.6 lbs to be precise). I also decided to buy all the boxes of a uniform size from a store (instead of reusing some of the cartons of different sizes that we had). The Shippers charge extra if an additional person is required to handle the boxes when they come to collect the same. Based on advice from Shippers and others, I wanted to ensure each box can be handled individually by one person. This was a critical decision that helped a lot later on while handling / moving the boxes at all places – my home in Harrisburg, Mumbai Air Cargo, transporting from Air Cargo Complex to my home in Mumbai and then for moving the boxes within my home in Mumbai..

I had read that the Home Depot / UHaul boxes were single-ply and that it would be better to get doubly-ply-reinforced boxes for this international shipment. But Harrisburg, PA is a small town and despite checking 3-or-4 stores (Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, etc.), I still couldn’t find the heavy duty boxes locally. I had found a very nice website for the packing materials http://www.packingmaterials.com/ and they had the strong reinforced boxes I was looking for but since I needed less number of boxes (shipping charge would be involved) and since I did not have the time / flexibility, I decided to buy the boxes from my local Home Depot together with a heavy duty packing tape. I bought six boxes (dimension: 18”L x 18”W x 16”H) but assembled four boxes and we began dumping items in them. I also bought the plastic sheets that are used to protect furniture when painting a house.

Packing the boxes was the most tedious and boring task. Especially, because we had to protect fragile things and distribute the heavy objects to manage the weight as well. My wife and I, both thrifty people bordering on misers, started well with our initial boxes. But my wife then started discussing other items like her business suits, formal dresses, etc. that she wanted to take back to India together with the traditional Indian dress. Four boxes grew to six boxes as the first week went by. In the following week, she said that she wanted to take her Teddy Bears with her since I didn’t buy her a real poodle as a pet. Six boxes grew to eight boxes by the second week. In the week after that she wanted to take umbrella, track pants and empty hand bags to India. Eight boxes grew to 10 boxes in that third week. So, the final count was ten boxes of 18”L x 18”W x 16”H, each weighing 18 kgs each. No amount warnings and call-outs will help the readers avoid these type of debates and decisions with their spouses about what one wants to take back to India. I would like to believe that families come out stronger after going through these discussions, but frankly I don’t see any value additions even after a few months after those discussions.

We assembled each box with liberal use of the heavy-duty packing tape (we required two rolls for our 10 boxes) to kind of make up for using the single-ply Home Depot boxes. We lined each box with plastic sheets to protect the stuff from possible rains in Harrisburg or at JFK, New York, or at any intermediary ports in Europe or at Mumbai. We set the files / books / photo albums vertically to form an outer layer within the box to protect the boxes from collapsing and also to protect the more delicate items in the center. We put a layer of Jeans / clothes on the bottom and then started filling in other stuff in between. CDs would be packed in a shoe-box lined with bubble-wrap / packing-paper, etc. All delicate items were wrapped in clothes. Finally, I would lift each box and stand on the weighing scale figuring out the difference between my weight without the box and with the box to arrive at weight of the box. This was the most painful part. We had to do add / remove / rearrange several items before arriving at the desired 18kgs or just less for each of the boxes.

We then did the detailed inventory of the 10 boxes and this meant a bit of double work because we would have to remove the stuff and put it back into each box as-is. I typed up all items box-wise in different worksheets of an Excel file. This was then to be used as a detailed packing list for my reference in case if I ever had to file a claim for Insurance. This detailed list also helped us locate even the smallest of items in our Mumbai home later on. Everyone knows that unpacking 10 boxes and setting it all in a closet is not an easy task and it helped that we could look up an item that we wanted on this Excel file on my computer and go exactly to that box to find that item (while leaving rest of the unpacked items in that box as-is until that box came up for unpacking). This detailed inventory also helped me make a summarized packing list for the Shipper. The critical points from our above experience are –

  1. Don’t do the inventory until you have weighed the box and adjusted the items for excess / shortfall.

  2. Don’t seal the boxes till the very end.

Part 4 Part 6

 

 

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Shipping from USA to Mumbai (Part 4)

July 29, 2009

Shortlisted Shippers

I finally narrowed down the two shippers who were prompt and professional in their replies and whose prices were also competitive.

1) Ms. Maha, Ext: 471
AIR 7 SEAS TRANSPORT LOGISTICS, Inc.
Email: Maha@air7seas.us
Website: www.air7seas.com
Phone Numbers:
(800)304-7447 x 471
(888)247-7732 x 471
(888)744-7277 x 471
Fax: (800)396-6659
International Phone: 408-957-8787 Ext. 470
International FAX: 408-957-7557 

2) Ms. Angelina Abraham (she prefers to go by “Nina”)
International Account Executive
Unipack Global Relocation
Website: www.unipack.net
Phone: (760)-295-3580
Fax: (760)-295-9027 fax
Email: nina@unipack.net
Members of: IAM, AMSA, CMSA, and BBB

Maha from Air 7 Seas was a south Indian lady who replied very promptly and efficiently. Based on the feedback on their website, they appeared to handle several relocations to India on a regular basis. She had mentioned that “If you find any better rates then these, please don’t hesitate to call me & let me know. We like to Beat or Meet the rates.”. She explained that for shipping by Sea  “the way we calculate the chargeable volume/weight is e.g.if we you have 1 Crate, which the dimensions are 48″ in Length x 40″ in width & 36″ in height. We will calculate the cubic feet (Cft) for which we need to multiply 3 dims & divide the result with 1728. With above dims the calculations will be as follow: 48″x 40″x 36″ = 69120/1728 = 40 CFT”. But she also explained that they charge a minimum of 50 cubic feet for Less than a Container Load (LCL) since they increase the volume for palletization and that weight has to be taken into account as well. She was based in Florida (I think) but had partners all over USA to collect the boxes from my door.

For Air, Maha explained that all airlines charge either on weight or volume-weight whichever is more. Volume-weight is calculated as Cubic Inches divided by 166. Cubic inches being derived as Length x Width x Height in inches.

Nina from Unipack was also very efficient and professional in replying including letting me know if she was going to need some time before replying to my questions. She was based in California and works from home. Again, it didn’t matter as their Company had partners all over USA to collect the boxes from my door. She gave me shipping-by-air quote only. “Shipping by air”??? Sounds funny because the first image that comes to mind when one says shipping is that of a ship :-).

Part 3 Part 5

 

 

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Shipping from USA to Mumbai (Part 3)

July 29, 2009

Preliminary Quotes

This was the very first time that I was shipping anything and I read through shipping experiences of others users on forums such as “Return to India Club Forums” (http://www.r2iclubforums.com/forums/f21/) and found information on pages like http://www.air7seas.com/MovingTips.htm, http://www.indiarelocation.com/relocation-services/movingguide.aspx and http://www.shipping-worldwide.com/faq-shipping.html. Some of the readers may find these calculators / estimating tools useful if they have more items to carry http://www.air7seas.com/BOL/household.asp and http://shipping-worldwide.com/.

I then typed up my requirement that I would have approximately 7 boxes of 18 kgs each and further details like pick-up will be from Harrisburg, USA and delivery in Mumbai. I also put in my questions like how much would the cost be reduced if I drop the boxes to the Shipper’s nearest office/warehouse in Newark. My requirement was a bit different and chances are that most of the readers may have more stuff to carry back. But I didn’t want to pay a big shipping price when the cost of the items itself would not be that much in my case. I also explained in my note that I was open to shipping by either sea or air, whichever is cheaper.

I started a new email account rather than publicize my regular email account for this quest. I searched Google and Yahoo Business Directories and starting emailing my pre-typed note to different shippers from that new email address. I found a website called Movers.com whose international movers section had city-wise information about shippers (http://www.movers.com/international-movers.html). I submitted my pre-typed note and Movers.com broadcasted / emailed that note to all the different shippers associated with that website. I started getting replies from several shippers but most of them had either not read my note/requirements or may be Movers.com didn’t send my note to them properly. Obviously, I weeded those movers into a separate scrap folder in my email account and sorted some of the better prospects and asked them follow-up questions.

I was told that if I had at least a quarter of a container load then shipping by sea would have been a better option. But since I had only about 7 boxes, air would just be as price effective. The terms I learnt as part of this process were door-to-door, door-to-port, port-to-door and port-to-port. The meaning for each of the term is pretty obvious. I gathered that the price of door-to-door by Sea would be the same as door-to-port by Air in my case. But I also learnt that I would still have to be present for Customs clearance with my original passport for both Air and Sea options. I was advised against Sea option by some agents since I would have to go to Nava Sheva Port (also called Jawaharlal Nehru Port) in Navi Mumbai and that is pretty far from my place. That would be a disadvantage that would tip me towards allowing the CHA to indulge in corruption in order to avoid the inconvenience of going that far. Shipping by sea would take a long time… about 6-to-10 weeks. Also, a couple of Shippers told me that in Air Cargo things are much better and that I could do the customs clearance myself and that kind of encouraged me.

Part 2 Part 4

 

 

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Shipping from USA to Mumbai (Part 2)

July 29, 2009

Disposing the balance stuff

I guesstimated that it would amount to roughly five-to-six boxes and decided to gather quotes from shippers for about six-to-seven boxes (I presumed that I would make smaller boxes of 18kgs each rather than few boxes of more weights, smaller weights being manageable while handling). Needless to say, I told my wife that we should manage it all in four boxes. This allowed us to donate all our old clothes including several that we had hoarded thinking that they will be of use in future but that we ended up never wearing even once. I was equally guilty of this and chuckled when I saw a few t-shirts and even a pair of old shoes (Woodlands) that I had preserved for using during Holi celebrations. It goes without saying, that I never once played Holi in several years and off they went to the Salvation Army donation box. I think we donated almost 3 sacks full of clothes and accessories. We also gave away all our Indian cooking vessels / utensils to newer Indian families setting up their base here in USA. We obviously gave them away for free on the condition that when the time comes, they too should pass those vessels to other new families. We also gave away 3 trucks / SUVs full of items to a Church Pastor who had just moved with his family to Harrisburg, Pennsylvania from California. He was happy to receive lamps, fans, smaller furniture items, pillows, totes, hangers, etc. It took him three rounds to take away all the stuff and he promised to put it all to good use. If he didn’t need it, he would give it away in his church and make sure that none of the items go to waste. It was a big thing with us (may be because we are Indians) and we wanted to ensure that nothing goes to waste.

I must mention here that Craig’s List was a big help to us in both selling our big-ticket-items (sofas, TV, Treadmill, etc.) and also in giving away items for free. It was a mad rush towards the end and we were just rushing around to dispose stuff. I had compromised and suggested to my wife that we should put some of our stuff near the trash area of our apartment complex, where several older people picked things away for use. But she insisted on putting quick ads on Craig’s List to give away items for free. Within five minutes of posting some of the ads on http://harrisburg.craigslist.org, she would get calls from prospective takers inquiring about the details of the items. That’s how Robert (the Pastor) contacted us as well and helped us out by collecting stuff from our door step.

Part 1 Part 3

 

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Shipping from USA to Mumbai

July 29, 2009

What to ship?

I recently relocated from USA to Mumbai, India (July 2009) and wanted to share some information about shipping from USA to Mumbai, India and my experience with the search for the “Shipper” together with the actual shipping experience.

First things first, I had to make a guesstimate of how much stuff I planned to ship. As outlined in my other blog about Customs Clearance in Mumbai, I decided against carrying any furniture or electronics items. Since the famous saying has been in the air for the past decade that “everything is available in Mumbai”, I decided to buy electronics items, if required, locally in Mumbai. I was moving to my parents’ house where we already had most of the furniture and electronics items. Also, I read several posts on the Internet about experiences of people who had shipped electronics to India. I am sure hundreds of thousands of electronic items must be shipped to Mumbai everyday but I was just not inclined to take a chance. What would I do with a LCD TV even if it got the minutest of scratches during shipping? I had rather buy a spotless LCD locally.

I definitely wanted to take home things I was attached to like books, audio and movie collection and albums of photos / pictures. Not to say that I was not attached to some of other items I had with me in USA, including some gifts we received during those seven years. I can’t describe the sadness with which I had let go some of those things with a heavy heart. I also wanted to take home some important papers including my Green Card papers together with some utility bills (in case if they were ever required for proof of address for the places I stayed in USA) – these papers too formed a heavy packet. My wife and I decided that it was prudent to take back our clothes that were in relatively new condition. Buying them locally in Mumbai would be time consuming and costly, especially my wife’s Ghagra Cholis and special salwaar suits.

Part 2

 

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Customs Clearance in Mumbai, India (Part 14)

July 25, 2009

Jai Hind

Anyways, there were far too many negative experiences on the Internet about interaction with Customs Official. I wanted to share this tiring but yet clean and positive experience to keep the eternal hope alive in us typical Indians. If any of you read this and if you are looking for information on doing customs clearance yourself, then I hope you find strength from my experience. Jai Hind!

P.S.: Here’s an advisable list of documents to carry for your customs clearance (a bit on the higher side to avoid a painful round-trip outside the ACC Complex for a photocopy):

  1. Four copies of the front page of your passport and 2-3 copies of the last page. I had carried copies of every page of my passport that had some sort of stamp or visa on it. But that was not required anywhere. No harm in carrying at least one copy of all non-blank pages of your passport.
  2. Three copies of the Airway Bill sent to you by your US Shipping Company.
  3. Three copies of the Delivery Order and the House Airway Bill (i.e. copies of documents given to you by your forwarding agent)
  4. Original Set of Delivery Order and Other documents given to you by your Forwarding Agent.
  5. Original Passport + Old Passport if it has expired within last three years.
  6. Packing List
  7. A print of the Transfer of Residence / Customs relevant to your case from an official website with their banner visible (it may act like an unstated deterrent for demands for a bribe).

Tip: Carry some nuts, cereal bar and small bottle of water at the least to help maintain a firm resolve through your time at the ACC Complex.


Read Part 13

Read Part 1

Customs Clearance in Mumbai, India (Part 13)

July 25, 2009

If only

There were several parts of the clearance process where transparency and improvements can bring dramatic benefits and reduce the time, effort and cost. I explained to one of my uncles that I grew up in Mumbai and was educated in our Indian institutions and practiced the Indian ways. And it was ironic, that United States of America invited me on a special visa and paid me great amounts to come to their country. Part of my job there was to sit with both my palms under my chin and observe processes in their Companies / Government Departments. I would then document my observations and recommend that a particular chain in the process be tweaked in this fashion and if/when they made that change, they would reap tremendous benefits. My clients would sit up and react like… “wait a minute… what just happened here… how the… ”. And then they would applaud and publicly recognize my inputs and appreciate me to the sky. And all this was with the same Indian upbringing and education. And yet, when I was in India or even when I am now back in India, there will be no value to my voice or suggestions.

I am sure that many private sector people will immediately protest to the above statements. They may be even partly correct in doing so. But I have lost all energy to go around finding those few likeminded people who are likely to understand my thoughts and ideas. I just don’t want to commute to work in Mumbai unless I can just take a 10 minutes walk to my office. Neither do I want to work more than 40 hours a week. I guess I just don’t have the stamina left to put up a protracted fight.

Part 12 Part 14 

 

Customs Clearance in Mumbai, India (Part 12)

July 25, 2009

The Joy Ride

I must mention that it had rained that afternoon and the floor of the tempo was all wet. I requested the tempo owner to at least spread a plastic sheet before putting my boxes that had magically survived till now. My wife had teased me about lining each box with plastic sheets when we were packing the boxes in USA. I had reminded her about the Mumbai monsoons and told her that there were several places where our boxes could be damaged before they eventually reached our home and it would do us no harm in throwing in an extra plastic sheet in each box. We both exchanged scared glances as the boxes were loaded on a patchy inadequate plastic sheet. My wife and I decided to make it a fun ride and we both sat on the long-enough front seat along with the driver of the tempo. I left the ACC Complex at around 4:30 p.m. and elated to have not paid any bribe that day.

As we pulled out of ACC Complex after showing the Gate Pass and clearance for the boxes, the rain started pouring in with increased vigor. This adventure was not yet over. Suddenly, I noticed that water was leaking heavily into the rear of the tempo pretty and over a few boxes. I requested the driver to cover them with something and he threw in a bigging mat over the boxes while waiting at a traffic light. The driver was not the tempo owner but just a local guy hired to drive that union member’s tempo. He too started bitterly complaining about the unfair and exorbitant charges and telling me of the high-handed ways of the union. I was feeling sorry to have stood up Rupesh and so I called him apologizing for the mistake for wasting his day (just because I didn’t know about the difference between the cargo and baggage sections). He gracefully told me not to worry about it and that it was not my fault since I was new to ACC Complex.

I asked the driver a couple of times whether he had to take another route due to the commercial vehicle restrictions as per traffic rules but he assured me that after 5pm, it was okay to take his chosen route. Inevitably a couple of Traffic Constables ( who are lovingly called Pandus in Mumbai by their victims) caught the poor driver. When he came back, I asked him what did he do wrong. He told the traffic cop that he was officially allowed to drive a commercial vehicle on that route after 5 p.m. and the cop still took a bribe of Rs.10 to let him go. Today, Mumbai has become so costly that even a beggar may return back Rs. 10 but it was pathetic to see that a traffic cop fleeced a poor boy for Rs. 10 (the driver was actually a young and poor lad and looked every bit so).

My wife and I heaved a collective sigh of relief after all the boxes were setup in our home. The boxes survived the ordeal and so did we. I was elated and informed all my well wishers that the boxes did arrive safely and that we did the Customs Clearance ourselves without any corruption or bribery. I was relieved to see decent people in the Customs Office who performed their duties diligently without any expectation of any bribes.

 

Part 11 Part 13

 

 

 

Customs Clearance in Mumbai, India (Part 11)

July 25, 2009

Final moments in ACC

Anyways, the customs loader who brought the boxes up to the gate was expecting a “baksheesh” (reward) for his effort but I was determined not to bribe anyone at this last juncture even at the cost of being thought as petty. I had officially paid Rs. 955 as handling charges and that should take care of the services of the loader. I had to pay an additional Rs. 100 to another loader to load the truck and conceded to pay the driver Rs.100 additionally to unload the boxes and take them up to my residential flat in an elevator / lift. All told, the drivers and the loaders costed me Rs. 1,200 as opposed to Rs. 600 that I would have paid to Rupesh.

I have sent my feedback to the customs authorities (I picked the feedback forms near one of the counters where they calculated the customs handling fees) and appreciated the clean and professional behavior of all the above mentioned names. I also requested them to look into exorbitant local charges of the truck union. I even felt like going back somehow to Mr. Gautam Wahi and see if he could crackdown on unfair practices of that truck union, but memory of those curtains and the pan-spit-stained walls make me hesitate. If the Asst. Commissioner of Customs couldn’t get those simple things in order through the bureaucracy, what was he going to do with the union goons. After all, he must already be aware of their existence and misdeeds of that Union.

Part 10 Part 12

 

 

Customs Clearance in Mumbai, India (Part 10)

July 25, 2009

Pleasant Interaction

Just as we were passing the cabin of Asst. Commissioner Mr. Gautam Wahi, the Police Constable sitting outside his cabin, asked me to go meet Mr. Wahi. I was again surprised at this last minute hiccup and bore the expression of “now what?” as I entered his room, expecting to see a middle aged Customs official who don’t look anything like us common people. I was surprised to see a very well groomed guy in his early forties, clean shaven, formal clothes and pleasant personality. He looked just like one of the educated white collar guys from the Private Sector with a very agreeable and professional personality. While he must be the big boss of that building, it was painful to see him in a office that had shabby curtains all around to give him some privacy. I guess it must be his way of observing his staff without being noticed himself from behind the curtains. The office definitely seemed a let down for a guy like him and yet it evoked admiration at his courage to take part in the Government Administration instead of going to the private sector like I did.

He asked me what took me to USA and I explained that although originally a Chartered Accountant, I switched to the IT industry and managed software projects in USA. He then asked me what brought me back. I explained that my and my wife’s parents were aging and that they were at that age where the health problems are perpetually coming up. I told him that we were in India in February for my mother’s knee replacement surgery and that having helped her with the post-operation therapy and recovery, I had realized that I had to face it and take a decision. So, we decided to relocate back to be closer to our aging parents after winding up our base in USA. He inquired about the expenses for my Mother’s operation (I guess because may be his parents may be expecting a similar surgery) and then wished me all the best for my endeavors in India.

Part 9 Part 11

 

 

Customs Clearance in Mumbai, India (Part 9)

July 25, 2009

Local Transportation and the Union Goons

Sensing that the goods would be cleared soon, I then called Rupesh Desai and he asked me which dhaka / godown I was waiting at. I told him the name of the building was Unaccompanied Baggage and he immediately explained that Cargo was a different section of the ACC and that his tempo was not allowed in the Baggage section. Needless to say, I was a bit perplexed with this latest twist. He explained that the Baggage section had a union of truck owners who violently beat the Cargo truck owners if they came to the Baggage section. So, he advised me to go find one of those Baggage section Truck Owners and discuss the new rate with them.

I found them sitting outside and they definitely had the arrogant tone of the Union guys. They said that there is no other way to take the boxes out of ACC and asked for Rs.1,200 for the delivery charges (as against Rs.450 that Rupesh was charging). I bargained and brought them down to Rs.1,000 but they insisted on giving me a medium sized tempo as against a small tempo that I wanted. They explained that there was a queue system in their union and the guy whose turn came up had only a medium tempo.

I went in and checked with Mr. Sanjay and he explained that if I had brought my own SUV then it would have been fine but otherwise there was no other way then to comply with the Union’s demand for an exorbitant rate. Seeing no other way out and not wanting to indulge in any sort of violence, I gave in and decided to go with that Rs.1,000 tempo. I then went back to those counters across a couple of halls in between and they issued me the Vehicle Gate Pass for the vehicle to take the boxes out after verifying that I had paid the customs duty of Rs. 700. The Vehicle Gate Pass then allowed the loader to release my boxes.

While the customs loader was wheeling my boxes to the building gate, I went in and thanked Mr. Dalvi, Mrs. Shetty and Mr. Sanjay for clearing it all the “correct way”. Observing my sigh of relief, a Clearing Agent near by, commented “mano duniya jeet li ho” (“as if you won the whole world”). I neither had the wit for a repartee nor the energy and time for it. But later when I did think about that comment, I felt I didn’t know where to begin to explain to that CHA that I guess I didn’t win the world, but this was very important for me. Coming back to my homeland after these many years, I was determined not to be victimized at the hands of corruption at my very first symbolic interaction with the Government.

Part 8 Part 10

 

 

Customs Clearance in Mumbai, India (Part 8)

July 25, 2009

Inspection of the boxes

I then took the printout and rest of the papers back to Mr. Sanjay. He then had those items verified by Mrs. Shetty and asked me to go to another counter through a couple of corridors to determine the customs handling fees. They gave me an invoice of Rs. 955 (I wonder if they calculated it at Rs.4.90 per kg, they did not provide any working of how they arrived at that figure) that I then took to another counter where State Bank of India (SBI) accepted cash payments officially and gave me a receipt. Sanjay then told me to ask the Unaccompanied Baggage section security gatekeeper to bring out  my boxes from the warehouse on showing that receipt as a proof. The fees I just paid were for the handlers to bring the boxes, open them for inspection, seal them at the end and deliver them at the building gate at the end. I doubt if the handlers realized that a hefty fee of Rs.955 was paid for their service. Not that I don’t appreciate their poor official income, but I think they had become used to expecting visitors to pay them separately over and above their salary.

They brought my boxes and I was relieved to see them intact (although sagging a bit from being stacked under other boxes). Read my shipping experience from USA to India. Mrs. Shetty then came over and inspected all the boxes. She sincerely went through in detail in several of the boxes asking what they contained. I again handed her the packing list (by box number) and she verified whether the stated items were there in each box. She asked us to show her items that she was interested in from a Customs Duty point of view. She was courteous and professional while still sincerely carrying out due diligence, verifying the items for herself. She went back and updated her system. We then waited for her to come back with Mr. Dalvi who verified that Mrs. Shetty had actually inspected the goods. They both discussed my case and explained to me that under NTR, computer accessories were dutiable. I explained to them that the declared value of Rs. 5,000 would be the original cost but that many of these items had depreciated and further many of the models were even outdated. To add to that most of the items were bought by me for discounted prices originally. They then deemed Rs. 2,000 as the reasonable dutiable value and told me to pay Rs. 700 as the customs duty. This had to be paid to the SBI counter in cash and I was issued a receipt for the same. I didn’t mind paying the duty officially and was happy not to have bribed anyone till this point.

I then submitted the receipt again to Mr. Sanjay who told me to take the papers to the Octroi desk besides the SBI counter and get their stamp. The Octroi officials also commented on the high valued declared for the clothes but grudgingly agreed that they were all used personal clothes and gave a clearance stamp.

Part 7 Part 9

 

 

Customs Clearance in Mumbai, India (Part 7)

July 25, 2009

The Process

While waiting for Mr. Dalvi to arrive from a near-by desk, I observed the overall air-conditioned room (about 450 to 500 sq. ft.) where there were several desks for various people including Mr. Sanjay, Mr. Dalvi, Mrs. Shetty and a few other officers together with an empty desk for the visitors to sit and fill the forms. There were red stains on the wall from someone having spit tobacco or paan (in India, many people eat beetle leaves filled with tobacco and several other things whose English names I don’t know). There were a maze of pipes with all the different cables / wires going around the room. It was better than some of the other Government offices I have seen but definitely not an office where any decent graduate from the known Mumbai colleges would agree to work. Sadly, it was a completely different world that people of my generation and later would like to avoid.

Mr. Dalvi arrived and reviewed my forms. He appeared to be a well educated gentleman and not the stereo-type government official. He asked me what the problem was and I explained that I had relocated from USA to Mumbai and wanted to clear my boxes without any corruption. I showed him the ToR Rules print out and complemented the Customs Department for the informative website. I explained how I had not brought any electronics items, not even a DVD Player so as to be able to do the Customs Clearance in the correct way. He asked me, with a disbelieving look, if my wife was allowing me to do so. I replied that she had to put up with me since she married me and that my parents had also called up twice that morning asking if all was okay and urging me to hire a Clearing Agent. I guess I was too focused on the task on hand and assumed that he was asking if my wife was allowing me to take the tedious legal path instead of the corrupt easy path. But later on second thoughts, I wondered if what he meant was whether my wife allowed me to “not bring any electronics” while relocating from USA to Mumbai. I guess hears what one wants to hear and some amount of martyr like mentality was inevitable in that state of mind that day.

Mr. Davli looked at my papers together with my original passport and agreed with Mr. Sanjay Keer’s observation that this could be treated as NTR. He explained that even if some minor duty comes up on inspection, I can pay that off into the Government Bank Account. I immediately agreed that rather than paying an agent, I would prefer to pay the duty, if correctly calculated.

Mr. Sanjay had taken over my case and was truly guiding me at each step. He then asked me to meet Mrs. H. M. Shetty (PRO Customs) and I repeated my case. She reviewed the forms and made a few minor corrections in the Airway Bill dates, etc. It seems that the Packing List I had given to the US Shipping Company was not legally required by Customs during their clearance process. But I just handed the list to Mrs. Shetty and told her frankly that I had not brought any big ticket items and that she could review the list herself. She mentioned that I may have to pay on the computer accessories and I explained that most of them were minor items and the cable modem and router were free-after-rebate-items received in 2004 when I took a cable internet connection in USA. I explained that being an Indian, I would wait for the best deals and only then bought some of these items at a very discounted rate. She told me that since I had declared Rs.5,000 that may be the dutiable amount. I explained that I asked Mr. Sanjay as well that this would be value if I were to replace these items today but not their fair depreciated value. She seemed to have postponed that discussion to a later step.

Mr. Sanjay then asked me to go to the first floor of an adjoining building to the CMC data entry center for Unaccompanied Baggage. Since it was their lunch time we had to wait till 2pm. My wife and I ate some nuts and fruits to keep up our energy. CMC is a Government Owned computer company and I guess the Customs process created jobs for them in this way. The data entry lady typed everything from my declaration form into her computer and showed me a draft print. She then took the final print with some corrections. She charged Rs. 75 for it and gave me a receipt.

Part 6 Part 8

 

 

Customs Clearance in Mumbai, India (Part 6)

July 25, 2009

No “Chai Paani”

On entering the office, I talked to the office usher or an office assistant or a peon (I wasn’t sure of his designation but he acted as the reception desk) explaining that we had recently relocated from USA to Mumbai and that we were here to collect the 10 boxes that we had sent by Air Cargo. I also told him in the same breath that I had not hired any Clearing Agent and that I had taken these prints of ToR rules from the Customs website and that I wanted to clear the goods myself without any “Chai Paani”, since I had not even brought a DVD player, forget any other electronics items.

He smiled benevolently and told me that he understood what I wanted to do and that he would help me with all the steps. I asked him name since he was not wearing a lapel pin nor did his desk have a name plate. He told me that he was Mr. Sanjay Keer and gave me a form for the ToR details. I read the instructions at the back of the form and filled in the simpler details (I wish I had taken an extra-copy of that form later in the day so that I could have shared it here on Internet but alas I conveniently forgot to ask for it later that day). I then asked him about how much amount should I write against the items contained in the boxes since all of them were used items and many of them were from India originally or were bought several years ago. I told him that I feared that if I wrote an amount for those items then they should not become the amount on which duty will be levied. Depreciation, Age, Purchase price after discounts/rebates, etc. should be taken into account even if they decided to charge duty on them. He advised that you write whatever was the value of the items if I were to buy them now.

 I tentatively wrote values for several items and asked him for a supplemental sheet as the original form allowed space for only six items. I clubbed the items broadly into Used Personal Clothes (Rs.60,000), Used Personal Music & Movie Collection (Rs.15,000), Used Personal Books & Photos (Rs.3,000), Used Wires and Computer Accessories (Rs. 5,000), Files & Important Papers (Rs.0), Used Personal Purses, belts & shoes (Rs. 3,000) and Used Personal Toys (Rs.200) totaling to Rs. 83,200.

 I must mention that while filling up the above form on a side table in that office within the Unaccompanied Baggage Building, I was further approached by a couple of Clearing Agents (they prefer to call themselves CHA) one of whom offered to clear all boxes for a service charge of Rs.900 only. Another CHA said that he heard me saying that I wanted to clear the boxes myself and said sure do it and I will help you in my way. He took the form from my hand before I could say anything and on reviewing it told me to explicitly write the words “used” and “personal” against each item. He also chided me on declaring Rs. 60,000 for the clothes. His advice about the words “used” and “personal” made sense and I made those corrections. While I wanted to clear the goods the correct way, I didn’t want to unnecessarily pay duty where it wasn’t fair. The CHAs did not disturb me after that. I did see Nazareth pass by a couple of times but he refused to recognize me or stop by. I guess running from one counter to the other day-in-day-out would wear anybody out.

Mr. Sanjay Keer reviewed the form along with my original passport, commented about needlessly declaring a high value for the clothes and on reading computer accessories asked me if myboxes had a computer as well. I clarified to him that I had already brought my personal notebook computer with me when I arrived by air and the boxes that had now arrived in cargo just had cables and accessories like microphone, webcam, etc. He then observed that I had no items that I will be claiming under the reduced customs duty rates under ToR. In that case, I don’t even need a ToR and that I could use Non-ToR. He asked me to change the entry in the form from TR to NTR as that will help wasting a ToR stamp on the passport when I was not clearing any such item. I saw sense in his advice and made the change. He also pointed out that he would need an additional copy of the House Airway Bill and DO and for that I would have to go outside the ACC to get a photocopy. He was nice enough to show some leniency and allowed the process to go on as long as I promised to give him that photocopy later in the day. He then asked me to meet Mr. U. V. Dalvi (Customs Superitendent I/C U.B.C. A.C.C) who was sitting across him.

Part 5 Part 7

 

 

Customs Clearance in Mumbai, India (Part 5)

July 25, 2009

Entry in to the Air Cargo Customs Complex

The Clearing Agent for whom that tout worked appeared out of nowhere and started parroting the same marketing lines that his tout had already recited. I politely requested him to not waste his time as I planned to clear my goods myself. He finally took the cue and left us alone as we entered the ACC gates. I entered from the men’s gate with my gate pass and then passed that gate pass to my wife (per instructions of the security guy at the gate). My wife then used that gate pass to enter from the Women’s security gate.

We asked someone about where to receive our boxes and they pointed us to a building towards the right hand side once we walked through the ACC gates. We followed the pedestrian pathway (as much as we could through puddles and wherever there were dry patches) to arrive at the “Unaccompanied Baggage” building. That’s what it said in big letters. We then entered it and asked an uninterested police havaldar, who obviously didn’t like being disturbed, and he just directed us to an enclosed air conditioned office section behind him. I kept the Customs ToR rules printout from the Customs Website ready together with the Delivery Order papers prominently visible in my hand. I was determined not to wear the fatalistic expression of a martyr or victim and I also checked myself from wearing an arrogant and combative expression. I didn’t want to show any sign of weakness by begging for my rights and yet I wanted to be pleasant enough for the interaction with the officials.

Part 4 Part 6

 

 

Customs Clearance in Mumbai, India (Part 4)

July 25, 2009

Outside the Air Cargo Customs Complex

I knew that Transfer of Residence is claimed per family and so I had taken my wife along (with her passport), not wanting to give any opportunity to the Customs Officials to then say that what if my wife had taken ToR on her passport earlier. Anyways, I must mention an interesting, though not unexpected, experience bordering on comedy. Even before we reached the Air Cargo Customs Complex (ACC Complex) in Sahar, just as our auto-rickshaw was nearing the circle outside the complex, touts / brokers of Customs Clearing Agents started running alongside our rickshaw offering to clear the goods for cheap. My wife looked bewildered and I told her not to mistake these people as fans running after her for autograph. She retorted that I should not have any high hopes either that these crowds are running after me since I had undertaken an honest path to avoid corruption.

We had to collect the Delivery Order from Oceanair Express Forwarding Agent’s office after paying them the exorbitant CAN charges. I wasn’t sure but I think CAN stood for Cargo Arrival Notice. They had called me to their office in a residential building just outside the Air Cargo Complex gates at 10am, but when I reached there Mr. Arun told me that I was an hour early. Eventually, it took them two-and-a-half hours before they gave me the paperwork. They charged me around Rs.2,750 for service charges. I didn’t call that service and definitely felt pinched by their disservice. Mr. Arun gave me elder-brotherly advice as well to hire Nazareth rather than face the frustration of dealing with Customs Officials, but I guess that made me even more determined to do the Customs Clearance myself.

While waiting for Mr. Arun to provide us “service”, we took a quick snack at a nearby restaurant. We were hungry and also knew that we may not get time for lunch once we entered ACC. So while the restaurant was not clean nor healthy at all, we still had to eat to avoid weakness in my battle ahead with the Customs Officials. I did keep my fingers crossed all the while as I ate that dreadful Idli-Sambar hoping not to catch a stomach-flu. After the snack, I walked over to a small lane on the left of the ACC gates where several transport vehicles of all sizes were parked. Auto-rickshaws, Tempos, Trucks and others. I spoke to the owner of a small tempo, as his tempo was just the right size for my 10 boxes (Rupesh Desai – 99699-59670). He asked me if my boxes were in the cargo or baggage and I told him I didn’t completely understand his question but that I had 10 boxes that I had to clear from the customs and take home (this mix-up / lack of knowledge on my part caused inconvenience to Rupesh later on). He gave me his phone number (99699-59670) and committed his tempo for my load, promising to ensure that the tempo would be available whenever I cleared the boxes in ACC. I noted his truck number, as that would be required for the Truck Gate Pass later on. He asked me to call whenever I obtained the Vehicle Gate Pass later that day. He offered to charge a very reasonable Rs.450 from ACC to Juhu Circle Bus Depot area where I live. But that did not include loading and unloading and I told him I would pay a couple of hundred rupees extra if he were to lend a hand.

On receiving the Delivery Order and supporting documents from Oceanair Express office at 12:30pm, we headed to the gates of the Air Cargo Complex (ACC) ignoring the offers of various agents to clear the goods for us, telling them gently that we plan to clear the goods ourselves. I walked to a security person at the gate and asked him where I could get the Gate Pass to enter the complex. He pointed to a small building / shed like structure to the left of the AC gates. I then spotted a sign board stating “Pass Section” to indicate that the gate passes should be collected from that building. I don’t know how “Pass Section” would indicate that one should go first to that section before entering the ACC, but may be it’s just me. A persistent tout followed us there prompting instructions from behind to go to this counter and not that. I thanked him again and requested him not to waste his time since I was clearing the boxes myself, but he insisted on being helpful. I had to present a copy of the first page of my wife’s and my passports along with the Deliver Oder and supporting documents received from the Forwarding Agent. One Gate Pass was issued for the two of us promptly without bribery. Yay! A good start to our quest ahead.

I once again took a moment, within as much privacy as the persistent pestering tout (say that fast three times) allowed, to offer one last time to my wife to go home. I told her that while I wanted to do this, she didn’t have to. The Customs Officials may make us wait in vengeance once they knew that they were not going to earn anything from me. I didn’t want her to faint because of hunger and exhaustion and make my position weaker in the battle ahead. But she said that she had nothing else to do at home and if it meant just waiting here, she didn’t mind. We agreed that she was free to leave for home when she got tired.

Part 3 Part 5

 

 

Customs Clearance in Mumbai, India (Part 3)

July 25, 2009

Preparing ahead of the ordeal

Coming back to my relocation experience, I was again determined this time as well to bring only what was permissible and not give any opportunity to the Customs Officials to think that they could exploit me. I started with researching on the Internet and found the “Transfer of Residence” (ToR) rules on the following customs website: http://mumbaicustoms3.gov.in/htmldocs/tr.htm

I took a print of the above rules to carry with me at the time of Customs clearance (with the web page banner prominently carrying the words “Commisioner of Customs”). I sold of both my cars, all furniture and major electronics items and gave away our vessels and several other things to different people in USA. We decided to bring back just our clothes, photo albums, books, music and movie collection and accessories related to my computer. We boxed them all and ended up with 10 boxes  in total (dimension = 18” x 18” x 16”). We decided to send those 10 boxes by Air Cargo since the Sea Cargo rates were working out to be the same price.

We had arranged for the boxes to arrive a few days after we reached Mumbai (making sure that the good reached here well within the stipulated limit of number of days). Please see this blog about our shipping experience from USA to Mumbai. I was keen to do the Customs Clearance on my own since I had complied with all the rules ahead of time. I also felt that having a Customs Clearing Agent as an intermediary gives the Customs Officials a chance to ask for a bribe. May be the Clearing Agent may proactively offer them a bribe thereby tempting the officials and making it difficult for them refuse. I had not yet taken a firm decision yet whether to hire an agent but my parents, my relatives and friends suggested not to get into all this mess to avoid the agony and frustration of dealing with Customs. I guess the hectic travels of the last few days before I arrived here had taken a toll and my energy level was definitely low on reaching Mumbai.

I spoke to a Clearing Agent Mr. Nazareth based on the reference received from my Forwarding Agent Mr. Arun Pednekar of Oceanair Express division of Writer’s Corporation (the Indian counterpart of my US Shipping Company). He offered to charge Rs. 2,500 as his fees and additionally I would have to pay customs charges for loading, etc. officially. I told Mr. Nazareth that I planned to try to do the Customs Clearance on my own and if I faced any problems or if the Customs Officer insisted on a Clearing Agent (read, if they broke my will), I would contact him the next day (I had three days to clear my stuff).

I wrote an email to the Customs Officials explaining my specific case and asked them for advice on how I could do my own Customs Clearance while avoiding any form of corruption. I sent the first email to customs@vsnl.com that I got from the “Contact Us” page from the website of Air Cargo Customs, Mumbai (http://www.accmumbai.gov.in/contactus/contact.htm), but it bounced back as undeliverable. I then went to on to Air Cargo Customs, Mumbai website’s “Email Us” page (http://www.accmumbai.gov.in/contactus/emailus.htm) and sent the same email to to pro@accmumbai.gov.in but again it bounced back as undeliverable. It wasn’t a pleasant start to my interaction with the Customs Department and I hope they put their correct email addresses (I have reported it in my feedback form to the Customs Authorities).

 

Part 2 Part 4

 

 

 

Customs Clearance in Mumbai, India (Part 2)

July 25, 2009

Corruption and Customs Officials

Talking of corruption and bribery, let me digress a bit to outline my previous experiences with the Customs Officials before I go on to explain my most recent experience with the above mentioned relocation. We visited India several times in the last seven years, principally because of my mother’s health issues. Also, my father never came to USA after his first trip in 2003 despite several promises. This meant that my mother wouldn’t come to USA either without my father (although she loved the parks, birds, animals and natural beauty of the various places we showed her in USA). Every prospective visit ro India aroused a bag of different feelings including the joy of meeting family and friends, dreams of eating the best food in the world and the patriotic feelings of returning to one’s own land. But inevitably it also brought the dread of facing the corrupt Customs officials. All the feelings of patriotism evoked on touching down on the Mumbai tarmac and on smelling the smoky Mumbai air (yes, you can immediately tell, since the air conditioning in airplane would be sucking the Mumbai air outside into the plane), evaporated as we would get closer to the corrupt Customs section.

The hungry corrupt eyes of the customs officials would be on the passengers as they get closer to the customs section. In five out of my six visits, we have been singled out from the Green Channel queue and told to come to the Red Channel desk. I guess it must be stamped on my innocent face that I am a soft person ready to be victimized. Knowing the corrupt ways of the Mumbai Customs Officials and not wanting to indulge in any corruption, I had decided before my very first visit to Mumbai that I would bring only those items that are within the permissible limits. I would study the latest customs laws on Internet and carry prints with me. Indeed, I never brought any dutiable items in order to avoid giving the customs officials any sort of an excuse in the first place.

On reaching the red channel desk, I would answer the Customs Officer’s questions and tell them upfront that I have brought items that are within the permissible limit and that they should immediately open my bags and verify the same. My preemptive strike was intended to steal away their threat to cause inconvenience by opening the bags. On every occasion they opened the bags and asked questions about some items. Four out of those six Customs Officers let me off grudgingly but two of them literally haggled like beggars asking if I could still give them some sort of a bribe. I would reply to them that I can not indulge in this practice of “chai paani” (the Indian word for a bribe).

Since this topic means so much to me, I have searched on the Internet of experiences of other Indians and inevitably found many sensitive souls like me who have been traumatized with their experiences in dealing with the Customs Officials. Read poor Dilip D’souza’s experience when he refused to entertain the Customs Officials overtures for a bribe. Not even Asst. Commissioners of Customs (ACTs) could help him when other corrupt officers were hell bent on making his life miserable, just because he chose to resist corruption (http://dcubed.blogspot.com/2006/10/customs-saga.html).

Some of the readers may not understand what the big deal is about putting up resistance to corruption. For that, one has to understand that complete social setup in Mumbai where ever since I have been growing up as a child, corruption was an accepted and inevitable practice in all spheres of our lives. Whether it be “chai paani” for the traffic cop or whether it was “chai paani” to get the examination questions from a peon or professor ahead of the school / college exams or in hospitals, police stations and even in morgues. Every person around you… your father, your uncles, your brothers, sisters, your friends, your peers, your professors, everybody has to pay bribe somewhere or the other. Being determined to not pay a bribe brings even more pressures and ridicule from family and friends. I have been fortunate to have not been troubled vindictively in all my trysts with the Customs officials. But the Government Officials are famous for harassing people who are unwilling to pay a bribe.

Part 1 Part 3

 

 

Customs Clearance in Mumbai, India

July 25, 2009

Relocating from USA to India – what items to bring back?

My wife and I relocated from USA to “Aamchi Mumbai” after seven years (“aamchi” means “ours” in Marathi, a local language of the state of Maharashtra). When we made this decision to relocate back to India, I already started thinking about what stuff should I take back and what would be the impact from Customs point of view.

I finally decided that I would not take back any electronics items (not even a DVD player) or furniture. I considered the following points before arriving at this decision:

  • We were moving in to our parents house where we already had the required furniture and electronics.
  • Also, I had started researching on the Internet about experiences of other Indians who had relocated back to India. I arrived at the conclusion that electronics, especially something like a flat-screen TV, are susceptible to damage in cargo. Even the slightest scratch would render the item useless and it would be better to buy that stuff locally in Mumbai.
  • Finally, I did not want to give any opportunity to the Customs people to ask me for a bribe.

Part 2